Ray Jardine's 2011-Moto-Prudhoe

Map

Preparations

Check valve adjustment
flush brake fluid and antifreeze
Change oil filter and air filter
Loctite-242 most bolts
Change tires to knobbies (Continental TKC-80)
Remove brake pads for inspection and lube the slider pins.
Install engine protection bars.
Install new pannier brackets and panniers.
Raise the front fender a little, to better handle the mud.
New 2P Net-Tent sewn by Jenny.

Check valve clearances.

Top end looks good.

Installing new tires in my shop/garage.

Tool cart.

Jesse Luggage Odyssey Side Bags installed 2011-16-10. Right one leaked and I spent hours trying to figure out a way to stop the leak. Finally, careful alignment so all washers covered up the oblong holes, and a thin nylon washer under the ss uppermost washer (to act as a gap filler) did the trick. The uppermost bolt sat too close to the bend in the case, and warped the washer when tightened. But on one case only; the case on other side was fine.

Note: during my Moto-America trip, on the Blue Ridge Parkway going 45 mph the bike got 81 miles per gallon. That dropped to 70 mpg going 55 mph, which was my usual speed for most of the trip. But going 85 mph it gets only 55 mpg.

Day 1: Departure

June 21, 2011: Arizona City AZ to Silver City NM

Rest stop in Superior

Familiar stop outside of Globe

I was looking forward to having lunch seated at a picnic table in the shade of the Ponderosas at Blackjack Campground. It was a standing lunch instead. The campground was closed due to risks of wildfire and also government cut-backs. This was to be a common problem for the next two weeks.

I stayed on the tarmac all day, and finally joined the GDR (Great Divide Route) at Silver City.

Day's mileage: 281 mi

Day 2

June 22, 2011: Silver City NM to Reserve NM

Fueling up first thing in the morning, across from the motel. We stayed at the same motel and ate at the adjacent restaurant during our Hello America bicycle tour; see the Link: "I was about to suggest we leave when Jenny decided on a bowl of soup."

Glory hole of the Santa Rita copper mine. My analysis was the same back then as now: "I hoped they fill it back in when finished." :-)

It felt good to be finally riding on the dirt roads. I had been worried about riding on the pavement on the knobbies all that way from home. I needed have worried, it didn't faze them.

A scenic ranch north of Mimbres.

Taking a break in the shade.

At the same spot.

Climbing into the cool forest.

This type of road would likely sustain much damage in a flashflood because it has no provisions for runoff. But then again, it doesn't get much traffic, so probably cheaper to repair when needed.

The route headed down into this pretty canyon. The road diagonalling back out is barely visible in this photo.

Nice stop along the way.

Open water is a rarity in these parts, so this is an often photographed spot. Actually part of someone's ranch.

Along with the water, I started seeing elk.

I saw probably 500 elk throughout the day.

I took this photo then went a little further, and this group came running across the road directly in front of me. It was pretty spectacular.

That was the end of the water.

Endless miles of road through dry terrain.

And endless rocks.

I had a funny feeling riding through this particular area; the people I met and saw didn't seem that friendly. Maybe they were tired of cyclists asking for water. But I sensed the problems ran a bit deeper than that, whatever they were.

I saw no cyclists to this point, but knew that they ride through here in droves. And they are mostly thirsty. There's no drinkable water for a hundred miles, other than at the wells of the infrequent ranches.

I had a five minute stand-off waiting for this bull (or steer) to get off the road. Actually I was backing up the whole time, because the beast was giving me what seemed a menacing look. It was standing still in the road, facing me; but finally it turned (as I was taking the photo) and moseyed off.

In 1992 Jenny and I had hiked this road, and this is how we obtained our water - from wells such as this. Like before, the days were windless; so I had climbed up the windmill tower and spun the blades by hand, while at the same time Jenny collected the runoff from the pipe in a water bottle. Now I was alone, so could not obtain water here. And I didn't want to bother anyone at the ranches, so had to go thirsty throughout the afternoon.

This bird (Western tanager) wants a drink but can't quite reach the water. I have found dead birds that have drowned in such tanks because they apparently fell in and couldn't get back out. So I usually leave a stick floating in the water so any hapless bird can climb on to that, and take flight from there.

Reaching Highway 12, I detoured SW to the small town of Reserve for water, food and fuel. There I met my first friendly motorcyclist of the trip, a local guy who stopped his pickup for a chat. He sounded like he knew the dirt roads in the area like the back of his hand. On my way again, I rode 5 miles back to a FS spur road, and pulled off the highway to find a place to camp.

The end of a long and fun day of riding.

Day's mileage: 165 mi

Day 3

June 23, 2011: Reserve NM to Grants NM

Note the safety strap rigged from the bike to the tree, to prevent the bike from falling over on the shelter during the night.

I'm camped on a ridge with nice views.

The road is getting better the further away from Hwy 12, but it's still rough. The 25 miles from Hwy 12 to Pie Town took 4.5 hours. I'm treating the bike gently because I have a long way to go to reach the top of N. America.

A crossing of the CDT (Continental Divide Trail) with the GDR (Great Divide Route).

The GDR desends back down into desert climes.

The pink building on the right used to be the town's Post Office, and was where Jenny and I collected our final resupply during our 1992 CDT thru-hike.

And of course the pie, but I hadn't worked up an appetite quit yet, so stopped only long enough to take the photo.

In another few hours I needed to get out of the sun, so took a nice break in the shade of this pinyon pine. These trees yield edible pinyon nuts but only on certan years; and this was not one of them.

Coming out of the trees, and back into the desert.

Duck-walking across the sand. I hit a patch of soft sand at 30 mph, and kept the bike upright with my feet. Good save. I didn't realize it then, but an expert would not have snapped the clutch and cut the gas. That's what threw the bike wildly out of control (the sudden deceleration while trying to stop).

This is CDT hiker Bear. That's my water.

La Ventana Arch.

While rolling through a town, I look for places like this where I can park my bike right outside my room. And also I make sure that the rooms have windows such as this, so I can see my bike parked outside. The only motels that fit this description are the older ones. When it comes to staying in motels, the cheaper the better. My needs are not great, as long as the room is clean.

Day's mileage: 138 mi

Day 4

June 24, 2011: Grants NM to FS-250 camp CO

At a fuel stop in Pueblo Pintado, I met this adorable Navajo pup. I bought him a treat in the store, and then sat outside in the shade with him, enjoying breakfast.

I had heard reports of mountain bikers complaining of the rocks and rough road through NM, and was experiencing that myself (but was not complaining :) nevertheless, I chose to ride the pavement today just to make an easier day.

I would see about a hundred mountain bikers throughout the next two weeks, and most were involved with a border-to-border race along the GDR. This morning I saw a few front-runners going like blazes on the Pueblo Pintado alternative route. (This alternative route follows the paved highway, and is up to 20 miles from the original route.)

Main street, Cuba, NM.

From Cuba I made a 17-mile navigational error (read: not watching the GPS - mounted on the bike right in front of my face :) and had to retrace my tracks to get on my intended road.

I like to ride for a couple of hours, and then find a place to stop in the shade. The orange stowbag is carrying my quilt.

Abiquiu Reservoir in northern New Mexico. A refreshing sight after all that desert scenery.

Friendly guys, nice bikes, and an improvisational way to carry the gear.

At a fuel stop in Chama I saw this famous narrow-gauge steam train - the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad.

The road led along the railroad tracks through a gorgeous forest backdrop.

My motorcycle is my companion for this summer, and I love riding it. And that's why I like to photograph it, especially in front of beautiful scenery (shown here at La Manga Pass). But I might note that I do not necessarily recommend this particular brand and model. There are many good ones to choose from, depending on what a person likes.

Back on the offical route, the road drops down into this pretty valley.

Then follows the Conejos River.

Showing off my Tarp and Net-Tent. I have to fix that wrinkle by pulling out the corner guy just a bit farther - nice and tidy like.

A beautiful campsite if ever there was one.

I was hesitant to ride on the grass, but the general area is meant for camping and there were several other campers nearby - and this spot has been camped at many times.

I'm taking many photos of my Tarp and Net-Tent because they are among my favorite items of gear. And I really like the Royal Blue color. I'm using a 2-person Tarp and Net-Tent on this trip, for the extra room they afford. My riding suit is very bulky due to its foam padding (armor) on the inside. Nevertheless, both the suit and helmet fit easily inside the 2-P Net-Tent, leaving me plenty of room to lay down.The 2-P setup is not that much more heavy and bulky than a 1-P setup, and the motorcycle has plenty of room to carry them. But if I were hiking or peddling, I would use the 1-P because without the riding suit and helmet the 1-P would fit me better.To learn how to use this type of shelter, refer to The Ray-Way Tarp Book Essential and to see the tarp set-up in action, see my 2010 A.T. Gear Video.

Day's mileage: 269 mi

Day 5

June 25, 2011: FS-250 camp to Gunnison CO

On the road again.

FS Road 250 leading along the Conejos River.

The rustic town of Platoro.

Roadside flowers (Blue Flax).

A stop to look at the wildflowers.

The road grinds slowly upwards towards Stunner Pass (10,561 feet).

The colorful iron deposits of the Lookout Mountain group.

The old mining town of Stunner used to be here, along the banks of the Alamosa river headwaters.

Someone's private lake; pretty nonetheless.

A stop to look at wildflowers.

Parry's Primrose

Marsh Marigold behind

Montezuma Peak on the way to Ellwod pass

This was my favorite time of year up here, when I was teaching summer-long wilderness classes. The snow has almost gone, but not quite, and everything's green and fresh.

The route descended to Del Norte where I fueled up, then still following the GPS, came to this: Road Closed. This was near the airport, and a friendly guy came out of a hanger, and noticing my plight, told me how to find the detour (around the airport to the west).

From Del Norte the route takes off into the dry prairies.

First moto guys I saw on the route. I enjoyed talking with them.

On the way up to Carnero Pass (10.166 ft.)

Lunch stop in the shade.

Lots of empty space out here.

To get fuel and food, I rode all the way out to Gunnison west on Hwy 50. If I had been paying more attention, I would have known that the route followed Hwy 50 east to Sargents. No big deal, but the point is, the GPS works most of the time, and almost all of time with better attention paid to it. :)

This photo didn't come out, but it's important in the story. Jim was staying at a motel in Gunnison (free rent, good friend with the owners). He is retired from a high-tech job, and rides his 1200 all over the place (Copper Canyon, etc). I was admiring his bike, and he offered to let me take it for a ride. I didn't take him up on that, but it sure was a nice offer. And I think it highlights some of the friendly people one meets on a trip like this.

Using a garden hose to wash my bike.

Day's mileage: 181 mi

Day 6

June 26, 2011: Gunnison to Silverthorne

First time for everything. Had it on the center stand to lube the chain, then dropped it! No harm done.

A rare rocky section on the way up to Marshall Pass.

The entire road leading up to the pass, and down the other side, is an old railroad grade. That's Mount Ouray in the background. It's just under 14,000 feet.

A beautiful day for riding.

The road has a few narrow sections, and very few pull-outs. It was built in the old days for the utility of the railroad rather than the enjoyment of modern tourists. But as the day progressed, I began seeing a fair amount of traffic: cars and trucks, a few mountain bicycles, and one other motorcycle.

Like most of the Colorado high country, this was a setting for very scenic ride. The spur road barely discernable in this photo leads to a great FS campground (down to the right).

A very pretty grove of aspens. This would be a nice place to visit also in the fall when the leaves are turning golden.

Looking back up at another narrow section.

The route descended to the town of Poncha Springs, where I fueled the bike. Then after passing through Salida it climbed back up into the foothills.

Above Salida looking across to the Sawatch Range - specifically here: Mt. Shavano (14,229'), Antero (14,276'), Princeton (14,167'), and Mt. Yale (14,196').

Down from Bassam Park Pass, and heading into the high prairies.

On the road to Hartsel. Mountain biker approaching (and no he didn't return my wave).

Two cow calves hanging out with buffalo.

I pulled into Hartsel and fueled the bike, then continued to follow the GDR north and west, towards the small, historic town of Como. Here I am almost to Como looking up at Boreas mountain.

Como

It's a fine day for climbing up to Boreas pass.

Boreas pass

During the early 1900's the railroad crew created a forest of stumps by using the nearby tress to heat their cabins in winter. Up here at this altitude - 11,493 ft. - the trees were slow to grow back. Nevertheless, the railroad was very important, and so was the crew that maintained the tracks.

The Tenmile Range.

Mr. Bushytail.

Enjoying the beautiful scenery while heading down to Breckenridge.

Goose Pasture Tarn (lake)

The Tenmile

I followed the official route all day. And getting down to Breckenridge, I could hardly believe my eyes when I saw my stealth campsite of last year.

Dillon Reservoir

The shadows are long and its time to find camping. Oh oh, somethings not right.

What to do? Take a few photos. Then drive back 10 miles to Silverthorne so that tomorrow I can have access to a parts store.

Day's mileage: 183 mi

Day 7

June 27, 2011: Silverthorne

I worked on the bike all day.

Day 8

June 28, 2011

Detour to Lakewood, then to Steamboat Springs CO

Foothills BMW, Lakewood.

After working on the bike all day, yesterday, and making five trips to the auto parts store, I had to admit defeat. So this morning I drove down to Denver to this BMW shop. I was expecting to be stuck here at least a day, but it took a service technician about nine seconds to find the problem. I was dumbfounded. "Yeah, we see this happen all the time" he said. With the problem identified, I was able to fix it, in the parking lot, in 20 minutes. I snapped this photo; then it was back up to Silverthorne to resume the route.

The Gore range where I spent a glorious summer of 1974 teaching wilderness classes.

Williams Fork Reservoir is quite sizeable and features nice picnic areas and a few campgrounds along its shores.

The bike is running beautifully.

Southwest of Kremmling, a view down to the Colorado River and a set of RR tracks.

Crossing the River.

View across to where the previous photos were taken.

Climbing high above the river.

I really enjoyed this part of the ride (south of Hwy 134).

but on a rainy day it would be tough, due the muddy road.

Not locked.

North of Hwy 134 the ride was just about as nice.

the lake at Stagecoach State Park.

Looking south, from where I had come.

Beyond the dam, the road was closed to motorized traffic, so I had to backtrack west to the nearest road, and go around this short section.

Keeping it clean in Steamboat. I'm having difficulty finding camping because just about all of the FS's campgrounds are closed due to the risks of forest fires.

Day's mileage: 246 mi

Day 9: Steamboat to Lander WY

June 29, 2011

It's a brand new day and my soul is softly singing a melody.

Riding through a beautiful grove of Aspen.

Engelmann spruce are common in the mountains of Colorado and parts north. They are one of my favorite trees because of how certain ones can provide shelter in a storm.

I liked the way the aspens are filtering the light and streaking the road with their morning shadows.

What makes this part of the ride even more enjoyable is the thought of what I will likely be riding through this afternoon. The hot and dry Red Desert is coming up. Not that I don't enjoy the Desert regions also. But this makes a especially pleasing contrast.

Thank heavens that I don't have to look through the windshield, but have a clear view of all that's around. But it's nice to have because it keeps the wind off my torso when riding fast.

A bach of yellow mule ears are adding a touch of color to the landscape.

I asked this friendly highway worker if I could sneak past. She looked at me, and said "See those people behind me? They are the big shots." ... Well, it was a nice try. We got to talking and she allowed that she didn't work for the highway department, but actually was part of the seismic crew, called here to make assessments about the safety of the highway department even starting their damage repairs. They didn't think the terrain was finished shifting yet, so it would not be safe to bring in heavy equipment for quite a while.

I had to turn back, and make a wide sweep to the west, through Baggs (no fuel).

This country store had been a lifesaver when Jenny and I hiked through here in 1992. Now sadly it had closed.

In a vacant lot in the town of Rawlins: Whatcha doing here? "Who me?"

"OK, I'm going already".

The GDR starts across the red desert on this paved road. Too bad it's heading in the wrong direction. (And no, the pavement didn't last long.) The whole route from here seemed contrived, and I thought back to our route of 1992 which would have been a much nicer plan. That route was pretty straightforward and lacked the constant zigzagging of the CDR. Still, I rode on, following the mighty zigzags across the empty terrain. (The green light on my dashboard indicates that the bike's transmission is neutral.)

These mustangs (wild horses) didn't let me get to close.

I've seen some wild tornado-like storms out here, but this one fizzed before it got much of a start.

Across the Red Desert.

I had planned to reach Atlantic city and detour to Lander to get fuel. But late in the day I was still 20 miles from Atlantic city, so on a whim I detoured NW to the 287, and in fierce winds made my way to Lander.