Part 2: Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland & Pennsylvania
Leaving Damascus, I saw a Woodland Box Turtle alongside the road
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The AT briefly followed the Virginia Creeper Trail. This was easy hiking!
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In southern Virginia the AT passes through pastures and open cattle range land.
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May 19, Day 27 White-Fringed Phacelia on the slopes of Whitetop Mountain
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In Grayson Highlands State Park I saw ten feral ponies, including mares and foals.
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May 20, Day 28 Easy trail, beautiful country, warm weather, a pizza delivered at a road crossing, and a 27-mile day. This was my kind of hiking!
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By the end of May the weather had turned hot and the water sources were dwindling. From my journal, "At the road crossing at VA 623 there were several large, flat rock slabs in the shade of the trees. One fellow was sitting on one of the rocks. I took off my pack and stretched out on my back on a different rock, soaked in sweat and with empty water bottles. It felt so good to get off my feet. The next hiker gal behind me came along and she did exactly the same thing on the next slab of rock. There were 3 of us, on 3 different rocks, sprawled on our backs.
"The next reliable water source was at Hunting Camp Creek, 4.6 mile further on. The water there was ok; not as good as a spring, but clean enough. There was an older hiker there, setting up his small bivy tent on one side of the creek. We exchanged hellos, and I noticed he was wearing some kind of lightweight nylon pants tucked into his socks. First hiker I had seen so far (besides myself) doing that.
"I carried my heavy pack, loaded with 2 quarts of water, up the steep trail climbing Brushy Mountain. I knew I could find good camping somewhere up there. Sure enough, a fantastic, true stealth site, a hard right turn off the trail, up a couple hundred feet at the top of the rise. I removed a bunch of down limbs and twigs and made a wonderfully comfy camp. And it was blessedly quiet - no whip-poor-wills, unlike last night when they carried on until nearly midnight."
Warm days and nights; so many beautiful flowers and amazingly, no mosquitoes, black flies, or other pesky insects
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I had seen only one tick so far; it was crawling on the toe of my shoe. To protect my legs from tick bites I had been wearing my shell pants tucked into my socks, and this was working good, although it was a bit warm on hot days.
I was usually on the trail by 6 or 6:30 in the morning, so I had the joy of seeing lots of wildlife
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May 29, Day 37 Descending from Tinker Cliffs
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Eastern Garter Snake
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I could almost always find good tarp sites. On my entire AT hike, I never slept in a shelter or lean-to, and only once did I camp near one. I had no problems with bears or any other critters.
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May 30 The old tractor seats planted in the ground at the top of Bear Den Mountain are still there! Shenandoah National Park, mile 869
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June 7 In Shenandoah NP, near the Byrd's Nest Hut #3
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I found the hiking through Virginia enjoyable and much easier than the rough terrain of the southern states. And by now, early June, the weather was more settled and much warmer. The days were long, which allowed me to maximize my hiking hours. Up early and on the trail by first light; in the late afternoon I would push on past other hikers who had stopped for the day, and I would keep going until almost dark, then set up my camp by headlamp.
June 9, Day 48 In Virginia's Sky Meadows State Park, my northbound hike finally caught up to the 17-year cycle cicada emergence that was occurring this summer in the east.
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June 10 I found plentiful water in the numerous creeks along the 13.5-mile "Roller Coaster" section in northern Virginia
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Near the Virginia/West Virginia border, mile 1008
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At one of the Waysides in Shenandoah National Park, I was talking to a woman who was sightseeing on Skyline Drive. At one point she asked me, "Why in the world would you want to walk the whole AT?" I gave her my short answer, "I love to hike and camp." I didn't get a chance to elaborate: I love the challenge. I love the summer-long change in scenery and the escape from my usual summer routine at home. I love how fit and healthy you can become. I love the self-discipline. I love the feeling of accomplishment.
Near Keys Gap after a night of rain
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Approaching the trail town of Harper's Ferry, West Virginia (mile 1,026) on Day 50, June 11
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I had a resupply parcel waiting for me at the post office in Harper's Ferry. Resupply days are special, another milestone reached. But I prefer to not spend any extra time in town. I like to pick up my box of supplies, unload things from my pack to send home, load in the new items, send the return box, then keep on hiking. On my way out of town I normally stop at a convenience store to buy some food.
In the historic district of Harper's Ferry is the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Visitor's Center. The ATC was formed in 1925.
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Thank you trail crews! These volunteer trail workers are the real "trail angels."
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In Maryland's Washington Monument State Park, I walked the short side path to see the monument, climb the spiral staircase and enjoy the views from the top.
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On June 14, Day 53 In Pennsylvania I reached the old Half-Way sign at mile 1090.5. Due to trail re-routes over the years, the actual 2021 AT Midpoint was at mile 1096.5
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In southern Pennsylvania, the AT traverses the Cumberland Valley, following hedgerows and crossing farmlands
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Milkweed and Monarch butterfly
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The white trail blazes made for easy navigating, but I still had to pay attention, and especially not get turned around.
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June 16, Day 55 View of Duncannon, PA from Hawk Rock
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I followed the AT through Duncannon, stopping at the laundromat to wash my clothes, a convenience store to replenish my food bag, and an ice cream shoppe for a treat. Then I crossed the long bridges over the Juniata and Susquehanna Rivers and climbed the steep slope on the far side of town. From my campsite I could see the lights of town far below.
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The rocky trail was becoming more challenging. I missed the soft forest duff and dirt trail tread of Virginia and the southern states.
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Two white blazes means the trail makes a turn
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June 22, Day 61 Descending to Lehigh Gap and the Lehigh River Bridge (mile 1260) on a wet and cold day
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Wild Bleeding Hearts
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When I reached Little Gap, I opted for a room at this lovely airbnb. It felt wonderful to be warm, dry, and clean again.
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June 24, Day 63 Another milestone: crossing the Delaware River and entering New Jersey
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