In my opinion, the video "The Most Hated Rock Climber Of All Time" is a typical smear job. It is based on untruthful information which appears to have been gleaned, in part, from the forums and social networks.
The photo above was taken in 1980 by Daniel Bolster, my climbing partner at the time. It shows my traverse into the Grape Race, and provides a clear view of the area of alleged destruction. Daniel took several of these photos, and none shows destruction. To enable the 5.11 pitch I enlarged four micro holds. Altogether they created less rock dust than the four bolts I placed. A 5.11 finger hold is minuscule. I'm not condoning my actions; just stating that the alleged damage was minimal and the criticisms were way overblown.
After completing the traverse, Daniel and I went on to free climb the pitches leading to the Great Roof. Back then, the roof crack was forever oozing wet, and I could not see how to climb it wet. So we aided that pitch, freed up a ways until coming to the Changing Corners. There, I realized I had met my match. Those moves were much more difficult than anything below, and were beyond my capabilities. So we called it quits, descended, and pulled our fixed ropes. I left the Valley on good terms. There were no animosities between myself and my climbing peers, at that time.
I later learned that Donny Reid and Chris Falkenstein might have started the animosity. Chris was an acquaintance; Donny and I were good friends. But the story was that - for whatever reason - they went up there and took photos of the alleged destruction, then hung enlargements in the Mountain Shop. There were rumors that they also took chisels to make the damage look worse, and possibly and inadvertently made the pitch easier. I have no opinions regarding these rumors. It might have happened, or it might not; or someone else may have been involved. But my photos show the rock face as it appeared back then. The traverse was a solid 5.11.
So my point #1: My alleged destruction was minimal, and for forty years people have been led to believe that I trashed the Nose - and in fact the entirety of El Cap. That claim is exaggerated beyond all measure. It's so far from the truth, it's not even funny.
Point #2: My traverse into the Grape Race was not part of the Nose route. The Nose route went from El Cap towers straight up to Boot Flake. Those who claimed free-accents of the Nose were using my traverse, and climbing off-route. Same with the final pitch. So how can someone claim a free-ascent with three pitches bypassed? One can look at the Topos from that era to see where the route went.
Point #3: However, one could presume that my traverse became a Nose route variation. In that case, my traverse became an indispensable part of the free-climbing challenge. Those who freed my traverse were relying on my micro finger holds. And I would like to think that none of those climbers criticized my holds while they were hanging off them.
I think the rampant hatred, implied in the video, is irrational and unfounded. For forty years it has neither solved any problems in the climbing world, nor made the world at large a better place. And it has not erased my micro holds. Without those holds, free-climbing the Nose would still be impossible. So I hope people will accept what's there, and move on. But if not, that's OK too.
PS: A big hello to those I might have known back in the day!
- Ray (Contact)
