Powered by Ray's "raptor_engine, ver 5" written and scripted by R. Jardine
In 2006 our lives revolved around a singular goal: our South Pole journey. To help prepare - and adapt to cold conditions (after living for six years in Arizona) - we made a number of training and gear testing excursions:
Between these trips, we gradually built up our fitness. Our training regime consisted of every-other morning climbs on the steep and rugged Pic'ho Peak, and our daily tire-dragging - walking along the paved streets while pulling heavy truck tires - to build the strength and stamina necessary to haul the loaded pulks. All the while, food preparations, and gear and clothing development were on-going.
May 2006
May 9, 2006 We flew from Phoenix to Minneapolis, then an overnight flight to Iceland, landing at the Keflavik International Airport.
From there we boarded a bus to the smaller, domestic Reykjavik Airport, near the city of Reykjavic.
We had made reservations at the The Red House, so we proceeded to lug some of our large and heavy bags up the steep dirt roads to the hotel. We left the ski bag containing skis and other gear, and our box containing sleds and other gear in the airport maintenance garage, planning to return for them later that evening or the next day.
At the Red House (Street view) we met Peter, a German fellow who was managing the place in the owner's absence. The other guests were another three Germans who were getting ready for a crossing to Disko Bay.
Back at the airport, we learned that there were no seats available on the next scheduled helicopter flight to Isertoq for tomorrow, Thursday. The next scheduled flight would not be until Monday. We began to consider hiring a charter helicopter to take us directly up to the top of Hann Glacier.
The bank had already closed for the day, and we had no Danish Kroners to buy food for dinner; But we still had some snacks left from the airline flights. Tired from a long day and a half of traveling, we went to bed at 8 pm.
2006-05-11
We were feeling jet-lagged, so we slept in. At 11:00 am we walked to the heliport and made arrangements for the helicopter charter. Then we walked to the bank for cash, the police station to check-in, and the store for groceries.
Back at The Red House, Peter sold us 15 liters of fuel (which was labeled: Heptan). However, we suspected it was not 15 liters – more like 11 or 12. The fuel was contained in plastic jugs, and some of it had most likely had evaporated through the plastic as it had sat there for many months. We should have purchased more, but the fuel was very expensive, at $6.00/liter.
Two policemen arrived at the Red House to inspect our gear. They were quite friendly and offered a ride in their vehicle to the heliport. Once there, we opened our box with the sleds and showed them some of our gear. They were mostly interested in seeing our communications: Sat phone, 2-way radios with GPS, PLB, as well as flare gun, shovel (and the two ice axes we had borrowed from Peter for this inspection). The police were satisfied and left.
We loaded our gear in the helicopter, a Bell 222. I sat in the copilot's seat with a headset, while Jenny sat in a passenger seat. The clouds were developing fast, and the ceiling was perhaps 800 feet overhead. The pilot, a Danish fellow named Janus, flew along the inlet lake toward the mountains, but he couldn’t get through the clouds that obscured the pass. Then Janus found a hole to get up above the stratus, and we flew into a clear sky. The 20-minute flight was fantastic, with gorgeous scenery: frozen lakes and ice on the fiords, steep mountain sides covered with snow and glaciers, range after range. We could see the ice cap in the distance.
We flew up the Hann Glacier and Janus picked out a spot on the edge of the ice cap on a gradual incline of a ridge. We quickly unloaded with the help of Janus and Peter who had tagged along for the ride. Then the helicopter flew away.
Suddenly we were alone in the immense stillness of rock and ice - a feeling that we relish.
But for one hitch: we couldn’t find our only fuel bottle for the stove. We looked for a long while, then I remembered I had stuffed it into a kite bag. We hoped this would be the only start-of-the-trip glich.
In 1-1/2 hours Jenny started to feel hot spots on the backs of her heels, so she swapped skis for mukluks. We strapped her skis on to the top of a sled. An hour later the pin in my leg started hurting so it was my turn to swap skis for mukluks. We passed several large crevasses, but they were filled with snow and covered with safe bridges. We kept going into the setting sun. When we first landed the temperature was +4 degrees Centigrade, so we wore only one layer of shirt all afternoon, and we sweated somewhat.
The crust was not holding our weight; we would sink in 1 to 2 inches with each step. But toward evening the crust started freezing, making the going easier.
We stopped at 9:07 pm, and when I checked the GPS it showed we had come only two miles in 4.5 hours. That seemed really odd. We were traveling at 1 to 2 mph the whole time, with three 20-minute breaks. We set up the tent with the temperature dropping rapidly, a full moon glowing, and the mountain tops a bit farther away than when we had started, and lit with a pretty alpine glow. All we could see to the west is more gradual uphill.
We used our ski poles for tent pegs, and while I finished securing the tent, Jenny began melting snow for drinking water and to cook a meal. There had been only a very light, 2 mph wind out of the west all evening, making for a pleasant camp, although we began to chill after we stopped pulling the sleds. We were thankful for the good weather at the start of our little expedition. It had been a very pretty day. We started with 330 miles to go to Kangerlussuaq, and now we have 328 to go.
2006-05-12
The sky was sunny and clear with no wind when we set off at 8:15am. The snow surface was frozen and quite firm, so we began in mukluks, walking on top of the snow without sinking in. Our feet and ankles are not yet used to the stiff ski boots, and for now the mukluks are much more comfortable and will not cause blisters.
We climbed for three hours to reach the top of the rise; it was very strenuous going.
From there our progress was good. We had a light headwind, out of the west, 2-3 knots. We stopped about every hour for a rest, to drink water, and to eat a snack.
We set off again at 1:30 pm, now on skis, as the sun begins to warm the afternoon snow. Our skiing speed is the same as our walking speed: 2 mph.
We followed a compass heading of 330 degrees magnetic. We used the mountain peaks behind us to check, but still our tracks zig-zagged left and right. The ski boots are stiff and makes our lower legs sore where the boots rub against the legs. The sun on our left side is roasting us, so we use full face coverage: hoods on our shirts pulled up, with a bandanna covering the face from the eyes down. We are using the nose protectors that attach to our sunglasses, but mine do not fit well.
The ice cap is really opening up in front of us. The afternoon wind was about 5 mph from the northwest. We traveled for 8 hours, stopping because our legs were sore from our boots. But anyway, it was nice to stop early. Just after we got the tent set up, a helicopter flew overhead on a heading of 330 degrees. Probably Janus checking up on us, on his way to somewhere else.
The GPS shows we traveled 10 miles today.
2006-05-13
The wind picked up during the night, from the northwest. When we awoke at 6:30 am it was blowing 15 mph and higher. We bundled up with two shirts under the ski jacket, fleece face mask, scarf, neck warmer and thick gloves. We spent over an hour freeing the snow skirt out of the frozen snow. It had really frozen solid during the night. It was a lot of work, but it kept us warm. Also, I had to dig out the ski poles and skis that I had used as tent pegs.
We set off at 8:50 am. We wore mukluks to start with and it was easy walking on top of the frozen snow. The ski boots are stiff and uncomfortable. As the morning wore on, the wind gradually increased to a 30 mph headwind. We are not ready for kiting as we are still adjusting to this new environment, but anyway we couldn’t kite into this headwind.
All day yesterday we had trouble keeping our track going straight, mostly because of the sastugi. It was a big job to wind through it. And we used the backsight of the mountain peaks although there is not much left of them on the horizon. Today the mountain tops are below the horizon, so we are using our shadows for navigating.
throughout the day we have difficulty navigating without some reference point. The instant we take our eyes off of our compasses, we begin to wander off course. Behind us, our tracks look like they were made by a gigantic snake. We soon learn use our shadows and irregularities on the snow surface to keep us on track. But in the afternoon the sky clouded and we would lose our navigational shadows, intermittently, so we would memorize the shape of the clouds ahead, and use those to keep a straight line. As always, we check our compasses regularly.
Despite the cold wind, the sun warmed the snow and we started sinking in, so we switched to skis. We discovered that the sleds are now much easier to drag; the weight of the skis and boots was noticeable.
This morning I had started off with two shirts under my ski jacket, the micro fleece, and the brown polypro fleece, but by mid-day I was overheating so I removed one shirt, and switched to a thinner pair of gloves. We wore one layer of pants, the micro fleece, and the ski pants over them all day. This combination seems to work the best, so far.
Again today the ski boots are painful to our legs. The fit is not right from the ankle up. We experimented with stuffing in small pieces of foam, loosening the buckles, and using the heel lift on the bindings. We shuffled along all afternoon.
At one point my skis caught on an under-cut sastruga, and I fell with a crash. Thankfully my bindings released both skis. The overhanging sastruga are everywhere. They look like small steps on a flight of stairs, 3 to 5 inches high, but hollow underneath. Because they are overhanging, the skis can get caught under them. A week ago a Norwegian was airlifted out with a back injury while snowkiting. We need a snowstorm to cover the overhanging sastruga.
Despite the sore legs we made better progress with the lighter sleds. The afternoon sun had a large sun dog and the whole sky was filled with thick cirrus.
Toward evening the wind slackened to about 10 mph. After 8 hours we stopped at 6:00 pm. It took us an hour to pitch the tent. We need ski poles that are not adjustable, with baskets that come off completely (no ball left behind on the pole) so that we can use the poles as tent stakes. I used 6 regular tent stakes today because the ice is about 2 inches thick with soft snow underneath. It took us another 1-1/2 hours to melt snow for drinking and cooking. We cooked corn grits tonight, which was much more satisfying than the corn spaghetti the previous night.
We have 4 one-liter plastic water bottles but we could have used a couple more each for drinking water during the day.
Our excitement at being here is shadowed by a mild feeling of vulnerability. We are a long ways from outside assistance, and the land offers no sustenance. Without sufficient fuel, we would be unable to melt snow for drinking water. Our survival hinges on the supplies and gear in our sleds.
2006-05-14,15
Stormbound in the tent. Wind is east, gusting to 40 knots. Ground blizzard, snowing continuously. But inside the tent is warm and cozy. During the day the sun warms it nicely even though we cannot see the sun.
Outside we have a whiteout all day; we couldn’t see anything. We did not bring any books so we take long naps. We keep adjusting the tent doors for maximum ventilation versus spindrift coming in. But we must keep the windward door fully shut. When we can, we open it just a hair, and it makes a big difference in the ventilation.
The quilt is working wonderfully. It is two layers of Alpine 3D. It is extra long and extra wide, with gorget and draftstopper.
The tent is small and the floor leaks. Snow gets under the floor, then our body heat melts it, and then it leaks inside. We must carefully place ski jackets and pants, empty stow bags, food bags or whatever else we don’t mind getting a bit damp around the perimeter of the inside of the tent, wherever our foam pads do not cover the floor, so that the quilt and our clothing does not get wet. We need a good tent floor that doesn’t leak.
The storm lasted for two days, and gave us a lot of time to think about our intended route to the west coast. We have come to realize that we are not fully prepared for an entire ice cap crossing. We were intending to kite for much of the distance, but have been experiencing nothing but contrary wind or no wind. So we have not been able to try kite skiing yet. Anyway, before this storm the kiting would have been dangerous because of the hard surface and sastrugi. Now all that is covered in a couple feet of soft powder. And it is blowing our direction, from the east, but it is a white out.
Being on the Greenland Ice Cap makes one feel vulnerable. We have a satellite telephone, and can call for a pickup if necessary, but not with the weather low like this. The heliport at Tasiilaq is around 50 miles from here. We are coming to realize that we just don’t have enough experience to go much farther from the heliport.
We don’t have any pickets to secure the tent in a real blow. Our short stakes are strong, but not nearly long enough. So in soft snow we can't anchor the tent very well. We tried using ski poles and skis, but didn't have much luck.
Also our food and fuel supply is not sufficient if we have to sled all the way. Again, we had planned to kite most of the way.
If we had more food and fuel, and pickets, we would have no qualms about continuing west. But lacking these things, we don’t feel confident to proceed further. However, we have learned a great deal, so we will go back to the drawing board.
At 2:00 pm we ventured outside and found a beautiful landscape despite the storm. By early evening we could start to see more landscape and we could see where the sun was, but only dimly through the cloud cover. But the snow continued all night. We are not cold. The quilt keeps us warm, aided by the big black jackets.
2006-05-16
We awoke to find the snow had stopped. The condensation inside the tent had everything damp, so we had to mop everything dry.
Outside, it was a different world from two days ago. I dug out the sleds, and had quite a job to brush off the sled bags and scoop out snow from underneath. Jenny loaded the sled bags while I took down the tent. The skirt was not frozen into ice, so it was easy to lift. I had used 6 stakes and had to dig down and around through the two feet of snow to find them. I used a Figure-8 on the midspan to loop around the stake, and then I tied the end of the cord to the stake so we wouldn’t lose the stake.
The fresh snow had buried not only our sleds but our tracks, the sastruga, the crusty humps and bumps of the old surface. Now we had the good soft snow for safe kite skiing that we had been hoping for. The only thing we lacked was a steady east wind.
The purpose of this trip was to test our cold-weather clothing and gear, and to gain experience in cold-weather trekking and skiing. Originally we planned a Greenland crossing, also, but now we had decided to remain in the area and gradually make our way back east.
We set off at 8:30 am on skis. the fresh snow was deep, so we swung leads every 15 minutes. We each wore a compass and used it to keep us on heading, but we also used clouds on the horizon ahead.
The wind sprang up from the port quarter at about 10 am. We kept trudging along to see what it would do. It stayed at 10 knots NW so we stopped, removed the skins from our skis, rafted the sleds together side by side for more stability, and pulled out our kites. We had been enjoying the trip thus far, but this is where the real fun began.
Our snowkiting skills are at an intermediate level (and counting), but we had never towed sleds. We found that we moved right along, despite the drag on the towrope. This is a fantastic way to travel, as long as one has wind and the skills to control the kite.
But the the wind was so light that our speed was only about 5 mph. However, this made for a perfect introduction to snowkiting in Greenland.
It was a gorgeous day, the sun was out, the immensity of the ice cap is awesome. Jenny said, “we have the whole continent to ourselves!” We stopped early to dry out the tent and sleds which still had ice and snow in the bottoms, left over from the storm, and scooped up by the low-riding gunwales today.
We constantly look out at the horizon, all around, strangely expecting to see something. But there is nothing; no people, no bears, no birds, no snowmobiles, nor other kiters. There's so much elbow room out here.
We had a nice dinner of corn grits, with milk and brown sugar on top.
2006-05-17
During the night the wind blew NW maybe 20 knots. We slept in until 9 am, as the wind diminished to 10 knots. This was not enough to kite with the sleds, so we decided to stay at this camp and spend the day kiting without the sleds, just for fun. We removed the skins from the skis, I took the 12 and Jenny the 10, and we had a really good time skiing back and forth for a couple hours. We had a lot of fun!
The wind became light again and sometimes we couldn’t move, but other times we traveled fast. I tried going to windward but it was all I could do to stay even, going back and forth. The wind was just too light, plus the deep powder created more drag going to windward when going slow. I crashed once because I got too close to the tent. Jenny helped right my kite and I relaunched. So I didn’t walk to the kite once today; yesterday I had to walk to the kite 6 or 8 times.
I nose-downed the kit twice and both times I righted it by pulling both steering lines at the same time, then letting go of one, making it fly 90 degrees, then launching from there. I kited mostly upwind of the tent, and Jenny mostly downwind of the tent so we wouldn’t interfere.
Jenny had two spills from losing her balance. She can fall down, get her skis back under her, and stand back up - without taking her skis off. I need to practice this. Once her kite helped pull her back up.
Eventually the wind dropped to the point where the kites could no longer pull.
We had a lot of fun today. It was warm in the sun but cold in the shade. The powder was really nice to ski on, about 1-1/2 to 2 feet deep remaining from the storm. We put the kites away, had lunch, melted snow for soup, hot chocolate, drinking water, then heated more water for face and hair washing. This felt wonderful.
It was an extremely enjoyable day. It is ironic where we are and we are simply having an easy snow kiting vacation with nobody around. We wish we had books for studying, programming books, but we take lots of naps, catching up on sleep, which is what we need most. For the past six months, since we started working on the snow adventures, we have been working really hard with both of us getting quite tired, needing more rest. Now we’re finally getting that rest.
It was a beautiful evening, no wind at all. There is a smudge of clouds to the south, otherwise an empty horizon. We can tell to the east the ice cap drops because we can’t see the horizon and the clouds appear from below. We have heard and seen jets go over a couple times a day.
The nights are not dark, but in the wee hours the temperature typically drops to -30°C.
Instead of sleeping bags we are using a 2-person quilt with 2-layers of Alpine insulation. On our Quilt Kit page there is a photo of this particular quilt, "the same Quilt pictured above, this time at the South Pole."
Beneath the quilt we wear one pair of homemade long underwear and one pair commercial rag-wool socks. We do not cover our heads with the quilt, but instead wear two hats each, both homemade. As insulation from the snow and ice below, we sleep on two foam pads each.
We are carrying lots of warm clothes, including insulated parka and pants, but we are finding we sleep comfortable without them. Our simple quilt does its job even though the nighttime temperatures are well below freezing. The secret when traveling in a sub-freezing climate is to use an 2X-Large stow bag, which does not compress the quilt. This is easy for us to do, because our sleds have lots of carrying room.
2006-05-18
Day #8 saw us breaking camp and launching our kites again. This time we pulled the two sleds in single file, one behind the other, which was a lot easier to pull. No tip-overs, they just followed us nicely. At least while traveling under 10 mph.
The wind was a steady 15 knots, so we used our medium-sized kites. Jenny flew the orange 5 meter, I used the black 7.5 m.
We stopped every few minutes to let the other catch up and take pictures, leap-frogging. The lead person gets way ahead, then later gets way behind.
We had to work the kites, they didn’t want to fly in the power zone going downwind. They wanted to go up to the edge of the window. Then we would go forward fast and catch up to the kite and it would start to collapse. We tried to jibe but not too successfully. At one point the 7.5 hour-glassed and then it flew really nicely in the power zone but not too fast. I flew it like that for 3 or 4 minutes.
Going downwind we need a NASA type kite, with laundry tied on to it. :) Another time I got a line-over on a wing tip and the kite flew down wind better that way also. It seems like the different size kites suit us because I have more weight on my skis so I need a little bit bigger kite but not much.
At one point we noticed an object flying over the horizon in front of us. Jenny saw it and was so distracted that she nosed-in her kite. It was a Canada goose, heading north.
By noon the wind had grown too light to kite. And then, I parked my kite at zenith, turned around, and the kite started pulling really strange. The kite was 45 degrees behind me – impossible! I couldn’t believe it. I landed it off to one side, and then realized the wind had switched 180 degrees. End of kiting for today.
We packed the kites, and got back into sled-hauling mode on a compass bearing of 190. The going seemed a little bit easier because of the slight downhill, and because the snow was more compacted. But my sled kept wanting to slide off it's own tracks, to the left of my ski tracks, like a water skier skiing outside the boat’s wake.
About a mile before we stopped to make camp we reached the edge of the plateau, and we started down a gradual but noticeable slope. It was very obvious on the ice cap where this occurred. We started down into an immense bowl. All morning we had a thick fog bank to the east. As we started down into the bowl we could see underneath the fog bank. The fog dissipated in the afternoon. We kept expecting to see mountains but they were hidden in the distant fog.
We didn’t go far today because we have decided to take it easy and spend as much time as possible kiting. We stopped at 3 pm and made camp. Later in the evening the fog dispersed and we could see mountains to the north and they were gleaming with new snow. They are a long ways off, but beautiful. The day had been gorgeous and the night temperature was very cold, relative to what we are used to.
Elevation at camp 4,282 feet.
In addition to sewing our clothing, we also made or modified most of our gear. For example, we designed and made control bars for the kites. These "Ray-Way" control bars are one-third the weight of commercial models, and much simpler to operate. All together we carried six of them, one for each kite.
Our harness are also homemade. They proved to be comfortable for both kiting and sledging, and simple to get in and out of.
Mid-day we lost our wind and reverted to sledging.
I have shed my ski jacket and wear only one layer of thermal shirt with a hat to keep the sun off my neck and ears. Half of a bandanna covers my face as sun protection.
Jenny takes a self-portrait. The afternoon is warm, but we cover our faces to prevent sunburn.
Hat and brim on, bandanna pinned to hat, nose guard, dark sunglasses, and a thin pair of liner gloves. Any exposed skin burns quickly under the intense sun and from the reflection off the snow.
2006-05-19
Another day of snowkiteing around camp. The winds are light and we are using our big kites, which are both the same color - red and white.
We are drawing near the eastern edge of the ice cap, and the beautiful mountains are again visible in the distance.
My runway behind camp. My ski tracks will be filled in with drifting snow within a day or two.
Jenny says that it is great to have the whole continent to ourselves. At least that is how it feels.
2:45 AM we are awakened by voices - up close! Poking our heads out the doorway, we find six skiers. A friendly conversation follows, as we ask each-other many questions.
They are Danish and they are on "day" 28 of their ice cap crossing. They have run into us because we happened to be on their route. They are heading for a helicopter pickup at the closest mountain marking the edge of the ice cap.
They are not using kites, and say that they experienced very little wind for their entire crossing.
The temperature is minus 30° C., and they say they have to get moving again to prevent frostbite. Before long they are mere dots on the horizon.
2006-05-20
The predominate winds are out of the west, and we suspect they are katabatic. Either way, they are just right for snowkiteing. And so we enjoy the day fully.
In this photo we are traveling at about 10 mph, and I am getting pictures of Jenny. I lose attention for a minute, and all of a sudden my kite wraps around Jenny! I steer my kite up again, and luckily it rebounds back into the sky, no harm done. Strangely, Jenny is not amused. :)
Jenny takes a photo of me at about the same time as the photo above, from her angle.
Jenny took this photo of me kiting ahead of her. The view is from between the lines leading from her control bar to her kite.
2006-05-21
That night the tent rocks and rolls with a ground blizzard. The snow piles against the tent like concrete - it is dense and freezes immediately. A few times we have to shovel it away.
The ground blizzard continues, and we spend the morning trying to fly kites, without much success. One by one we tangle the lines. As each kite is rendered inoperable, we chuck it into the sled bag.
Finally down to our smallest two kites, we managed to fly them successfully for all of about 15 minutes. In these winds we travel at about 25 mph, and the sleds flap behind us like flags, and even roll over a few times.
Time to stop and lash the sleds together in tandem, for stability. Except that the wind is picking up even more. As we land the kites they, too, tangle in a ball - together. So, in the sled with them too.
Back to sledging, and now we begin a diagonal descent off the ice cap. Note the sloped horizon.
The ground blizzard is blowing at 50 mph. The winds are definitely katabatic, and so strong that they blow our loaded sleds continually down hill.
Eventually we reach a fairly level plateau, and stop to build a snow wall to protect the tent.
That done, we crawl inside and are amazed at how warm and quiet the tent is behind the snow wall. We even open the windward door fully in order to melt drinking water and cook a meal.
2006-05-22
The ground blizzard persisted all night but by morning had spent itself.
In gloriously warm weather we work for four hours untangling kite lines.
2006-05-23
The next day is also warm and windless, so we set off on skis heading for our pick-up point at the edge of the mountains, five miles distant.
Soon we reach the hill that we climbed at the beginning of our outing, and find it so steep in places that we can almost ski down it with our skins on.
After 12 days of a nearly featureless horizon, our eyes get a real treat.
As we approach our pick up location, the mountains ahead loom ever larger.
It was good to experience the vastness, the stillness, the crispness, and the solitude. But all too soon the helicopter will interrupt all this and whisk us away.
2006-05-26
Back at the village, we find the snow has melted from the ground, but the sea is still frozen.
2006-05-28
We enjoyed our Greenland trip very much, and learned a great deal. The trip was a resounding success, and we returned home with lots of ideas for gear and clothing improvements.
Now it's back to climbing Pic'ho Peak and dragging tires.
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