Powered by Ray's "raptor_engine, ver 5" written and scripted by R. Jardine
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date | Location | Route | Rating | Partners | Description | 1963-Summer | Tetons | Beginner rock climbing class | Barry Corbet | My friend Grady and I worked at West Thumb. He had taken the Tetons climbing class at Exum's school, and he urged me to take it as well. So we hitch-hiked south to the Tetons and I took the beginner's class and Grady took the Intermediate. Instructor Barry Corbet had me lead the 4th class belay practice slab, in order to belay the next person up. Ironically, then, I led the first pitch I ever climbed. However, the subsequent rappel scared me so much that I swore off climbing forever. That soon changed, and I took the Intermediate class the next week. | 1963-08 | Tetons | Storm & Ice | Grady Matthews | After taking the classes, Grady and I started climbing a few routes in the Tetons. Our goal was to climb the Grand Teton. The first few climbs were to build experience. | 1963-08 | Tetons | Symmetry Spire Durrance Rt. | II 5.4 | Grady Matthews | And one other partner (name?). This was an all day climb. The route was excellent with good rock and exposure and the technical difficulties were just right for our level of experience. Near the summit we were running out of time and I grew impatient with the third person because he was slowing down. So I un-roped and continued 3rd class. Got a good chewing out for that. I tied back in, and we finished the route. | 1963-08-12&14 | Tetons | Mt. Teewinot | Grady Matthews | 1-bivy. Summit at 2:00 pm. We wanted to climb the Grand Teton, but the rangers wouldn't let us. They suggested Mt. Teewinot as a safer alternative. Near the top we wandered off route and found ourselves on technical rock. On one unprotected lead I ran out of rope and asked Grady to start climbing behind me. Running out of strength on a final traverse, I came close to peeling. When I reached a ledge and started belaying Grady proper, I had a powerful vision type experience. |
1964: While in college I took the summer off and spent a lot of time climbing around Colorado Springs, finishing with a trip to the Tetons and Yosemite Valley. From there I went back to school. | 1964-Summer | Garden of the Gods | S. Ridge White Twin | Richard Kiefer | Many routes in the Garden including these | 1964-Summer | Garden of the Gods | S. Ridge White Twin | Richard Kiefer | 1964-Summer | Garden of the Gods | S. Gate Tyrolean | Richard Kiefer | Late evening, after work, we rigged a Tyrolean between two points. | 1964-Summer | Garden of the Gods | The Thumb | Richard Kiefer | 1964-Summer | Garden of the Gods | Montizuma N. Ridge | Richard Kiefer | Long lead-out with only one point of protection. Smashed thumb while hammering my one piton. | 1964-Summer | Chyenne Canyon | various routes | Also climbed several routes in Chyenne Canyon. | 1964-08 | Tetons | Koven Rt., Mt. Owens | Richard Kiefer | and two others (names?). After the climb we spent a few evenings around the climber's community campfire, drinking Teton tea and enjoying the rounds of singing. | 1964-09 | Yosemite Valley | Monday Morning Slab - Right Side | Richard Kiefer | Richard and I spent two weeks in Yosemite Valley, climbing and bouldering. | 1964-09 | Yosemite Valley | Lunch Ledge | 5.6 | Richard Kiefer | Washington Column |
1965: While enrolled in college, I attended a climbing class that met every weekend for a few months. | 1965-Summer | Stony Pt. California | Sierra Club climbing class | While enrolled in college I attended a climbing class that met every weekend for a few months. | |||||
1967: Graduating university I moved to Denver and started working as an aerospace engineer, but also climbing most evenings and most weekends, mostly in mountains west of Denver with a few forays into Boulder and Eldorado Canyons. | 1967-05 | Morrison, Colorado | Several new routes | Solo, Sandi, Richard Sanderson | Including Recall Crack, The Pendulum Rt, the Aid Crack (5.9) etc. | 1967-06 | N. Turkey Creek, CO | Mini-Diamond aid diagonal | 5.6 A3 | 2 short pitches with sling belay | 1967-07 | N. Turkey Creek | The Flake Rt. | A3+ | Sandi | Sandi belaying. 3 attempts and 3 rippers with final success. | 1967-08-19 | Tetons | N. Face Grand Teton | V 5.7 | Peter Lev | Aug 19-21, 2 bivies (top of burgschrund & Guide's hut) Summit at 6:30 pm. My one and only guided climb. | 1967-Oct | Boulder Canyon | The Practice Rock | A1 | 1967-Oct | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | 5.6+ | Richard Van Pelt | My first climb in Eldorado Canyon. Richard led all pitches | 1967-10 | Eldorado Canyon | T2, first 2 pitches | 5.8 A2 | Richard Van Pelt, Steve Holcom | First 2 pitches. I lead the second. | 1967-Oct-26 | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper 1-3 | 1967-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | Supremacy Slab | With top rope. Many times. | 1967-Nov | Boulder Canyon | Country Club Crack | II 5.6 A2 | Richard Van Pelt | Wearing a t-shirt in blizzard conditions, I belay Richard in slings just under roof for 2.5 hours on the long aid pitch. | 1968-01 | Colorado | CAWM School | During the winters of 67-68 & 68-69 I instruct for the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School. |
1968: | 1968-May | Boulder | First Flatiron - North Arete | I 5.0 | 1968-May | Boulder | Maiden - North Face | II 5.4 | 1968-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Redguard Route | II 5.6+ | 1968-Mar | Boulder Canyon | Country Club Crack | II 5.6 A2 | Richard Van Pelt | 1968-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Dirty Deed | 5.5+ | 1968-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | The West Chimney | I, 5.5 | 1968-Apr | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | 5.6+ | 1968-05-00 | Flatirons | 1st Flatiron, N. Arete | 5.3 | 1968-05-00 | Flatirons | 3rd Flatiron, E. Face | 5.4 | 1968-05-00 | Flatirons | Maiden, N. Face | 5.5 | 1968-May | Eldorado Canyon | West Butress of Bastille | III 5.9 | Richard Van Pelt | 1968-05-00 | Yosemite Valley | First pitch Half Dome | Richard Van Pelt | I led the first pitch then we both decide we are not ready for a wall climb of this magnitude. So we retreat. | 1968-Jun-23 | Flatirons | 1st Flatiron, Baker's Way | 5.4 | 1968-Early | Eldorado Canyon | Attempt Rosey Crucifiction | Richard Van Pelt | First pitch | 1968-Early | Eldorado Canyon | Attempt Rosey Crucifiction (second time) | Richard Van Pelt | First pitch | 1968-Jun-08 | Eldorado Canyon | Wind Ridge | 5.5 | Climbed this several times that year | 1968-Jun-15 | Eldorado Canyon | Wind Ridge | 5.5 | 1968-Jun-15 | Eldorado Canyon | Redguard Route, var | II 5.6+ | 1968-Jun-18 | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | 5.6+ | 1 hr 23 min. | 1968-Jun-26 | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | 5.6+ | 1968-07-01 | Longs Peak, Colorado | Attempt Diamond | Dick Sanderson, Richard Van Pelt | Six tries to reach the base of the Diamond. On the 6th try we met Walt Frickie, who had also been trying. He and I decided to join forces. | 1968-09-07 | Diamond | D7, Diamond | V 5.7 A3 | Walt Frickey | Diamond climb #1. (my first of 7 diamond climbs) D7 on Longs Peak, (V 5.7 A3) Sept 7-10, 1968 with Walt Frickey. 4 bivies: hut, Broadway, top of 4th, & Kieners Ledges after climbing until 2 A.M. All pitons. 8th asc. Approached via N. Chimney. | 1968-10-01 | Eldorado Canyon | West Butress of Bastille | III 5.9 | Joel Merrin | My leads. Joel forgets to finish tying his knot, and his belay rope nearly falls off his harness while he's lybacking the second pitch | 1968-Oct-11 | Eldorado Canyon | West Butress of Bastille | III 5.9 | George Hurley | 1968-Oct-20 | Eldorado Canyon | West Butress of Bastille | III 5.9 | Dick Sanderson | Vicky bystanding | 1968-Oct-27 | Eldorado Canyon | West Butress of Bastille | III 5.9 | Walt Frickey, Richard Van Pelt | 1968-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | Vertigo | II 5.7 A1 | Did this route many times. | 1968-Nov-02 | Eldorado Canyon | T2 | IV 5.9 | Richard Van Pelt | 1968-Early | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | Larry Fiddler | 1968-Winter | Colorado | CAWM School | During the winters of 67-68 & 68-69 I instruct for the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School. |
1969 Colorado: MUCH bouldering on Flagstaff, Running Mesa Trail, etc. | 1969-01-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Canary Pass, 2 pitches | 5.6 A3 | Solo | Did this many times during the Winter of 68-69, usually with Sandi belaying from the ground. | 1969-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Canary Pass | III 5.8 A4 | Walt Frickey | 1969-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | The Practice Roof | A2+ | 1969-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Psycho, var. | III 5.9 A2+ | var to meadows | 1969-Mar | Boulder Canyon | Country Club Crack | II 5.6 A2 | Richard Van Pelt | 1969-03 | Denver | Richard Van Pelt was a friend of Bill Forrest. Richard takes me to Bill's house and introduces us. | 1969-03-22 | Eldorado Canyon | Wind Ridge | 5.4 | Kris Walker | Kris was one of my students in the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School, both years. After the school closed, I invited Kris to climb in Eldorado. We climbed Wind Ridge, 5.4, his first rock climb. | 1969-03-22 | Eldorado Canyon | Attempt Naked Edge | Kris Walker | Kris' 2nd rock climb. One bivy in hammocks. Blizzard conditions force a retreat. | 1969-Apr | Eldorado Canyon | Recon | 5.5+ | 1969-01-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Canary Pass | III 5.6 A3+ | Kris Walker | 1969-01-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Attempt West Buttress of Bastille | A3 | Kris Walker | Climbing at night, a tiny wired Copperhead breaks, I take a ripper and tear up my hands. We rappel to the ground and spend the night in hammocks, in the bat cave across the creek. | 1969-Apr | Eldorado Canyon | Calypso | 5.5+ | 1969-Apr | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Direct Turnkorner, Sundance Buttress | 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | The first 2 pitches. | 1969-Apr-04 | Eldorado Canyon | Naked Edge | IV 5.9 A3 | Kris Walker | Finished the climb, after a long struggle on the next-to-last pitch. I needed bongs (wide chocks had not yet been invented). Met Laton Kor on the way down. He had climbed the Ruper | 1969-Apr-18 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | III 5.9 | Kris Walker | 1969-Apr-18 | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | II 5.6 | 1 hr | 1969-Apr-18 | Eldorado Canyon | West Buttress, Bastille | III 5.9 | George Hurley, Kris Walker | 1969-00-00 | Denver | Forrest Mountaineering | Bill Forrest invents Foxheads and copperheads. I help manufacture them for commercial sale. | 1969-Apr-28 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | III 5.9 | Kris Walker | 2.25 hr | 1969-Apr-30 | Eldorado Canyon | T2 | III+ 5.9 | 2.5 hr | 1969-May | Boulder | Maiden - North Face | II 5.4 | 1969-May | Devil's Tower, Wyoming | Hollywood & Vine | III 5.8 A1 | Joel Merrin | First all-nut ascent of Devil's Tower. | 1969-May | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Direct Turnkorner, Sundance Buttress | IV 5.8 A3 | George Hurley, Kris Walker | 1st ascent, after Kris and I had climbed the first 2 pitches. (George later reported contracting a tick disease from that day) | 1969-05-01 | Flatirons | Maiden, N. Face | 5.5 | 1969-May | Eldorado Canyon | The Anthill | II 5.5 | 1969-May | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Hurley's Tree, the Book | III 5.7 A3 | Joel Merrin | 1969-May-23 | Eldorado Canyon | West Buttress, Bastille | III 5.9 | Kris Walker | 1969-Jun | Eldorado Canyon | Bastille Crack | II 5.6 | 1969-06-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Original Sidetrack | I 5.3 | Solo | 1969-Jun | Eldorado Canyon | West Face, Bastille | II 5.9 | 1969-Jun-04 | Eldorado Canyon | West Buttress, Bastille | III 5.9 | 1969-Jun-24 | Eldorado Canyon | Naked Edge up to lead 4 | Solo | 1969-07-01 | Flatirons | 3rd Flatiron, E. Face | 5.4 | 1969-07-04 | Peru | Huascaran | Gene White, Betsy White, Mark Bostwick, John Larson | 1969 July 4 - 26, ascent of Nevado Huascaran, 22,205' Peru, with Gene and Elizabeth (Betsy) White, Mark Boswick, John Larson. 9 days on the mountain. Before that we climbed in the Quilcayhuanca, Chinchey area. | 1969-Aug | Eldorado Canyon | King's X | 5.7 A3+ | 1969-Aug | Eldorado Canyon | Genesis | III 5.6 A4 | Bill Forrest | 1969-Aug | Eldorado Canyon | Le Toit & Yellow Flower | III 5.8 A3 | Bill Forrest | 1st ascent Yellow Flower. 1 bivy (for practice). Aid crack which parallels 4th pitch of Ruper to the right. | 1969-08-01 | Halletts Pk. | 2nd Buttress | III 5.8 | Bill Forrest | 1969-08-01 | Crestone Pk. CO | Sanderson's Couloir | III 5.7 | Dick Sanderson | 1st ascent. | 1969-Aug | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper 4,5 | 5.7 | Kris Walker | 1969-08-09 | Diamond | Diamond climb #2: Yellow Wall | V 5.8 A3 | Bill Forrest | Yellow Wall (V, 5.8, A3), via N. Chimney. 3 bivies, 5th ascent. | 1969-Sep | Eldorado Canyon | T2 | III+ 5.9 | 1969-Sep | Eldorado Canyon | Naked Edge | IV 5.9 A3 | Kris Walker | Photographed by Bob Godfrey (ropes hanging down, pigeons flying) Climbing magazine etc. | 1969-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | Jules Verne (Var Pitch 1&2) | IV 5.8 A4 | Kris Walker | 1 bivy (for practice). 3rd ascent | 1969-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | Tagger | 5.9 | 1969-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | The Grand Giraffe | Up to ramp. | 1969-11-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Old Bad Aid Crack | A4 | 1969-Nov | Eldorado Canyon | C'est la Vie | III 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | with Traverse. | 1969-Dec | Eldorado Canyon | Rosy Crucifiction | II 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | 1969-Dec | Eldorado Canyon | Guenese | II+ 5.7 A3 | 1969-12-01 | Boulder Canyon | Whittle Wall | 5.7 | 1969-Dec | Eldorado Canyon | Super Slab leads 1 & 2 | 1969-Dec | Eldorado Canyon | The Buldge | 5.6+ | 1969-Dec | Boulder Canyon | The Cozeyhang | 5.5 | 1969-Dec | Eldorado Canyon | Mickey Mouse Nailup | II 5.7 A3 | 1969-Winter | Boulder | Workouts | During the snowy winter of 1969-70, Joel Merrin, Richard Sequig and I meet at the CU gym three evenings a week for pullup workouts. Our goal each evening was a hundred per person. This was lot of fun, and we laughed a lot, even though the workouts themselves were pretty serious. |
1970: | 1970-Jan | Eldorado Canyon | Wisdom | III 5.7 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Jan | Eldorado Canyon | Wisdom | III 5.7 A3 | Pitch 1 & var | 1970-01-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Guenese | III 5.9 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-01-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Rincon first 2 pitches | 5.8 A3 | Solo | Kris and I do parallel solos | 1970-01-30 | Colorado | Start climbing full time | 2- | Kris Walker | Kris wanted to quit college, I wanted to quit my engineering job at Martin Marietta. We decided to climb full time with the goal of doing every route in the Eldorado section of Pat Ament's "High Over Boulder" guidebook. | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Dessert | III 5.8 | Bill Forrest | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Green Spur | Solo | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Chockstone Chimney | 5.6 | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Great Zot | III 5.7 | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Anthill Direct | III 5.7 | Kris Walker | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Sidetrack (with direct start) | II 5.6 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Kloeberdanz | III 5.9 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Rover | III 5.9 A3+ | Kris Walker | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Le Void | III 5.8 A4 | Bill Forrest | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Giraffe (nailed over Art's Spire) | III 5.8 A2 | Ramp to top | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Green Slab | II 5.7 | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Super Slab | III 5.8 A4 | Ian Wade | Ian worked at Martin Marietta, also, which is where we met. | 1970-Feb | Eldorado Canyon | Grandmother's Challenge | III 5.7 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Slimy Spoon | 5.8 | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | The Greaser | 5.7 | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | The Serpent | III 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Psychosis | II 5.8 A2+ | From the journal: Good route | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Neurosis | II 5.8 A2+ | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Course | II 5.7 A2 | From the journal: Good route | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Hot Spur | II 5.7 | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Roof Wall | II 5.7 A2+ | 1970-Mar | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Hurley's Tree, the Book | III 5.7 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Diving Board | IV 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | 4th ascent | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | South Face of Tower 1 | II 5.7 A3 | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | Pigeon Crack | II 5.7 A2 | Kris Walker | Nailup in winter conditions | 1970-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Apple Strudel | III 5.8 A4 | Up to final 15' | 1970-Mar | Eldorado Canyon | the Black Walk | III 5.8 A4 | Kris Walker | 3rd ascent | 1970-Apr | Eldorado Canyon | Italian Arete | III 5.8 | Ian Wade | 1970-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Long John Wall var | II 5.8 A2+ | 1970-Apr | Eldorado Canyon | Rincon | III 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | 1970-05 | 1970 Spring Yosemite | 1970-05-10 | Yosemite Valley | Lunch Ledge | 5.6 | Kurt | Washington's Column | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Royal Arches | III 5.7 A0 | Kris Walker, Kurt | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Washington Column - South Face | V 5.8 A3 | Kris Walker | 1 bivy. My first Yosemite big wall climb. | 1970-05-14 | Yosemite Valley | Chouinard-Herbert | V 5.8 A2 | Kris Walker | 1 bivy. Sentinel Rock | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt nose (7 pitches) | Kris Walker | Haul bag starts tearing, forcing a retreat | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | After Seven | 5.8 | Thom Nephew | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.10a | Thom Nephew | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | West Quarter Dome - North Face | V 5.8 A3 | Thom Nephew | N. Face Quarter Dome | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | After Six | 5.7 | Sandi | 1970-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Harry Daley Route | 5.8 | Sandi | Harry Daily, Monday Morning Slab | 1970-## | 1970 Summer | 1970-Jun | Eldorado Canyon | Calypso | 5.5+ | 1970-Jun | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Fat City, the Book | III 5.7 A2 | Bill Forrest | 1st ascent | 1970-Jun | Eldorado Canyon | Exhibit A | III 5.7 A2 | Don Briggs | 1970-Jun | Eldorado Canyon | Wendigo | III 5.8 A3 | Ian Wade | 1970-Jun | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | the Guillotine | III 5.8 A1 | Bill Forrest | 1970-08-01 | Diamond | Black Dagger | V,5.8, A3 | Ian Wade | Diamond climb #3: Black Dagger via rappel. 3rd ascent, but traversed off Keners Ledge. Late August. | 1970-07-01 | New Mexico | Shiprock standard rt. | III 5.7 A1 | Gene White, John Larson, Barb Euser | It was Gene's idea to climb Shiprock, and he enlisted me as the technical person :) I don't remember the route being difficult, but I understand it was closed to climbing shortly thereafter. | 1970-08-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Anthill | 5.5 | 1970-Sep | Eldorado Canyon | Psuedo Sidetrack | 5.3+ | 1970-Sep | Eldorado Canyon | The West Ridge Route | I, 5.7 | 1970-08-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Evangaline | III 5.7 A3+ | Ian Wade | 1970-09 | 1970 Autumn Yosemite | 1970-09-01 | Yosemite Valley | La Escuela | II A1 | Bill Forrest | Training for Nose | 1970-10-06 | Yosemite Valley | Nose | VI 5.8 A3 | Bill Forrest | The Nose ~25th asc. 3 fixed, 4 bivies: Stovelegs, El Cap Tower, Camp IV, Camp VI. My first El Cap climb. | 1970-Winter | Boulder | Winter gym workouts. One day I do 1,000 pull ups and members of the CU gymnsatic team give me a team-colored sweat shirt with a big "1" on it. |
1971: | 1971-02-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Guenese | III 5.7+ A3 | Bill Forrest | 1971-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Hurley's Tree, the Book | III 5.7 A3 | Larry Bruce | 1971-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper | III 5.7 | 1971-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper 1-3 | II 5.7 | Sandi | 1971-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | III 5.9 | Kris Walker | Free | 1971-05-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Anthill | II 5.5 | 1971-05 | 1971 Spring Yosemite | 1971-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Royal Arches | III 5.7 A0 | Bill McFarland | 1971-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | El Capitan - West Face | VI 5.9 A4 | Ian Wade | West Face, 3 bivies: Base, El Cap Arms, & top of 15th. 5th Ascent. My second El Cap climb. | 1971-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Slack, with Sacherer start | III 5.8 A1 | Ian Wade | 1971-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Patio Pinnacle - Regular Route | III 5.9 | Harry Frischman | Fellow Outward Bound instructor. Our claim to fame as partners was that we climbed the wrong mountain twice, finding ourselves stranded on the same summit, first on a recon and then with our students. It was pretty funny. | 1971-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Nutcracker | II 5.8 | Bert Redmond | (climbed a variation to the route) Fellow Outward Bound instructor. Funny story: Bert actually saved my butt the previous summer. I was climbing a steep couloir on Holy Cross mountain with a few select students, and near the top came to a rock head-wall. Problem was, I had left my hardware in camp (forgot to pack it.) I led the pitch on improvised gear to the half way point, and was having trouble going farther because of rope drag. (no carabineers, just a few threads with the rope passing behind them.) All of a sudden I hear Bert calling me from above. He had hiked up the mountain's back side. So he top-roped us all up. | 1971-06 | 1971 Summer Colorado | 1971-06-05 | Utah | Titan, Finger of Fate | V 5.8 A2 | Bill Forrest | 7th ascent. 1 day ascent | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Perelandra, the Book | III 5.7 A2 | Larry Bruce | 1st ascent | 1971-06-05 | Halletts Pk. | 3rd Buttress, Halletts | IV 5.6 | Bill Forrest | 1971-06-05 | Boulder Canyon | Bailey's Overhang | 5.7 | 1971-06-05 | Boulder Canyon | The Owl, var. | 5.7 | 1971-06-05 | Boulder Canyon | East Slab, var. | 5.4 | 1971-06-05 | Boulder Canyon | The Brick Wall | 5.9 | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | J-Crack, Book | III 5.7 A2 | Larry Bruce | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear | III 5.9 A2 | Bill Forrest | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Tighter Squeeze | 5.7+ | Leonard Sanders | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Nuts, Book End | Larry Bruce | 1st ascent | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Overdose | III 5.8+ | Bill Forrest | 1st ascent | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Classic Crack | I 5.8+ | Bill Forrest | 1st ascent. Same day as above | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Double Chimney | II 5.8 | Bill Forrest | Same day as above | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | The tooth | I 5.7 | Same day as above. 1 day, 9 pitches | 1971-06-05 | Rocky Mt. Park | North Ridge, Spearhead | II 5.7+ | Larry Bruce | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Central Chimney, twin Owls | II 5.7+ | Larry Bruce | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Wolf's Tooth | I 5.7+ | 1971-06-05 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | III 5.8 A2 | Bill Forrest | 1971-08-01 | Diamond | Diamond climb #5: D-1 | V 5.9 A4 | Bill Forrest | D1 (V 5.9, A4) 9th ascent. 3 bivies: Boulderfield, Bivy Cave, top of 7th. | 1971-08-01 | Diamond | Diamond climb #4: Grand Traverse | V 5.7 A3 | Bill Forrest | The Grand Traverse (V 5.7, A3) 2nd ascent. 3 bivies: Boulderfield, 3rd, & 6th. | 1971-10 | 1971 Autumn Yosemite: I catch a lift to Yosemite with Steve Wunsch, Jim Donini, and Larry Hamilton. My goal for the fall season was to climb the Salathe Wall. I could not find an aid partner, so started free climbing instead, and had so much fun that I pretty much quit aid climbing. | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | La Cosita - Left | 5.7 | Larry Hamilton | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Bishop's Terrace | 5.8 | Bill Westbay | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.10a | Bill Westbay | (twice) | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Steck-Salathe | V 5.9 A3 | Bill Westbay | 1 bivy just below top of flying Buttress | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Bill Westbay | L. side | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Left | 5.9 | Bill Westbay | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Chingando | 5.10a | Steve Sutton | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Goodrich Pinnacle - Left Side | III 5.9 | Ben Read | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Jump for Joy | 5.9 R | Adrain | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Kor-Beck | IV 5.9 | Ben Read | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Commitment | III 5.9 | Ben Read | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Selaginella | III 5.8 | Ben Read | Commitment & Selaginella same day | 1971-10-24 | Yosemite Valley | Sentinel Rock - West Face | VI 5.9 A3 | Ben Read | 2 bivies: base & 9th ~11th ascent. From summit register: "1971-10-25 West Face, Ben Read." | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Jamcrack Route | 5.9 | Ben Read | (Sunnyside Jam) | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Phantom Pinnacle - Regular Route | III 5.9 | Phil Gleason | 1971-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Crack of Doom | IV 5.10a | Phil Gleason | My first 5.10 off-witdh. Met Lloyd Price while hitchhiking back. Note: Back then, there was no "5.10a, b, c, d or 5.11. The routing system went from 5.0 to 5.10. |
1972: | 1972-01-00 | Split Rock | Fantasia, Split Rock | 5.8 | Joel Merrin | Split Rock is west of Lyons on Highway 36. | 1972-01-00 | Split Rock | Fantasia | Kris Walker | 1972-01-00 | Split Rock | Edge of Night | 5.9 with one piece of aid | 1972-01-00 | Split Rock | F1-R 5.9; F2-R 5.8-9; F3-R 5.7 | Mark Hesse | 1972-01-00 | Split Rock | F1-R | 5.9 | Larry Hamilton | 1972-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | T2 | Mike Yokell | 1972-03-01 | Split Rock | Hands | 5.10- | Mark Hesse | 1972-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | By Gully | 5.9 | Roger Briggs | 1972-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | Coffin Crack | 5.9 | Roger Briggs | 1972-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | Tongo | 5.10 | Mark Hesse | 1972-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | West Slot | 5.8 | Mark Hesse | 1972-03-01 | Boulder Canyon | Skunk Crack | 5.8 | 1972-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | 5.10 | Mark Hesse | 1972-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | 5.10 | Mike Yokell | Over bolts | 1972-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | T2 | III 5.9 | Richard Sequig | 1972-03-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | 5.1 | Larry Hamilton | 1972-03-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Giraffe | III 5.8 | Richard Sequig | 1972-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Course | 5.9 | Larry Bruce | 1972-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Athletes Feat | III 5.10 | Mark Hesse | 1972-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Green Spur with Green Slab dir finish | III 5.9 | Roger Briggs, Larry Bruce | 1972-04-01 | Boulder Canyon | Jackson's Wall Direct | II 5.9 | Roger Briggs | 1972-04-01 | Boulder Canyon | Crack of Desperation | 5.9 | Roger Briggs | 1972-04-01 | Boulder Canyon | Final Exam | 5.10 | Mark Hesse | 1972-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Hair City | 5.9 | Bill Roose | 1972-04-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Grandmother's Challenge | II 5.10 | Mark Hesse | 1972-04-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear & Twister | 5.10c | Jimmie Dunn | 1972-05 | 1972 Spring Yosemite | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 | 5.10a | Dan McClure | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Dan McClure | Reed's Triple Direct & Generator Crack same day | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Up to Half Dollar on Salathe | 5.10 A2 | Dan McClure | 1 bivy | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | The Hourglass - Right Side | 5.10a | Jim Donini | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side | 5.10a | Dan McClure | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Bongs Away - Center | 5.10a | Dan McClure | Reed's Pinnacle L. Side & Bongs Away - Center same day | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Absolutely Free - Right Side | 5.10a R/X | Dan McClure | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Secret Storm | 5.10a | Dan McClure | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Edge of Night | 5.10c | Dan McClure, Doug Snively | Billy, Mark, Doug, and Dan rode their bicycles from Colorado to the Valley. | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | The Slack - Left Side | 5.10b | Doug Snively | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Middle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress | V 5.10a | Rik Rieder | 5 hours | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Middle Cathedral Rock - Direct North Buttress | V 5.10b | Rik Rieder | DNB 3rd free ascent. 12 hours | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Stone Groove | 5.10b | Roger Briggs | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress - regular | IV 5.9 A0 (aid on bolts) | Roger Briggs | E. Buttress Middle | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Lost Arrow Chimney | V 5.10a | Rik Rieder | 7 hours | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Gollum - Left Side | 5.10a | Mark Clemmins, Jim Donini, Pat Ament | 2nd ascent | 1972-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Paradise Lost | IV 5.10a | Rik Rieder | 1st ascent. 1 bivy top of 8th. Located on Middle Rock. | 1972-07 | 1972 Summer Colorado | 1972-07-01 | Eldorado Canyon | Yellow Spur | 5.10- | Mark Vallance | 1972-07-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Sicilian Defence | 5.8 | Mark Vallance | 2nd ascent | 1972-07-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Hurley's Tree | 5.9 | Mark Vallance | 1st free ascent of entire crack | 1972-07-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | part of Orange Julius | 5.9 | Bill Putnam | 1972-08-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Turnkorner | IV 5.10 | Roger Briggs | 2nd free ascent. | 1972-07-01 | Diamond | Diamond climb #7: Curving Vine | V 5.8 A3 | Roger Briggs | Curving Vine, 4th ascent. 1 bivy at base. | 1972-08-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Tiger's Tooth | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1972-08-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Gollum's Arch | 5.10 | Mark Hesse, Jimmie Dunn | 3rd free ascent | 1972-08-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | 5.10 | Jimmie Dunn | 1972-07-01 | Diamond | Diamond climb #6: Jack of Diamonds | V 5.9 A4 | Jimmie Dunn | Jack of Diamonds (V, 5.9, A4) 2nd ascent. 2 bivies: 3rd & top. | 1972-09-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Tiger's Tooth & Twister | 5.10, 5.10 | Mike Yokell | 1972-09-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | 5.10 | 1972-09-01 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear | 5.10 | Roger Briggs | 1972-09-01 | Boulder Canyon | Country Club 1 fall | 5.x | Larry Bruce | 1972-04-01 | Boulder Canyon | Gates of Eden | 5.9 | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Boulder Canyon | Country Club | 5.11 | Larry Bruce | 6th free ascent | 1972-09-01 | Eldorado Canyon | 3 pitches Naked Edge & finish T2 | 5.10+ | Mark Hesse | 1972-09-01 | Boulder Canyon | Umph Slot | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Wyoming | Horn's Mother - Vedavwoo | 5.10 (not clean) | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Wyoming | the Rapture - Vedavwoo | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1st ascent | 1972-09-01 | Boulder Canyon | Super Squeeze | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 1972-09-01 | Boulder Canyon | Athlete's Feat | 5.10 | Mike Yokell | 1972-10-20 | Boulder | Climbing Instructor, University of Colorado, Boulder | Worked as climbing instructor for University of Colorado, teaching their only Advanced class. Did this for two years. | 1972-10 | 1972 Autumn Yosemite | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Crack of Despair | 5.10a | Joe Herbst | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Joe Herbst | Crack of Despair & Generator Crack same day | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Vendetta | 5.10b | Joe Herbst | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | English Breakfast Crack | 5.10c | Mark Hesse | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Angel's Approach | 5.9 | Mark Hesse, Larry Bruce | Back then, we considered this route 5.10 | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Cookie - Left | 5.10a | Bill Westbay, Doug Snively | 1972-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Independence - Left Side | 5.10 | Jimmie Dunn | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Stovelegs, El Cap | V 5.10 | Rick Sylvester | 5th free ascent of the Stovelegs. | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | George Hurley | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10 | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Cristina | 5.11b | George Hurley | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Doggie Diversions | 5.9 | George Hurley | Cristina & Doggie Diversions same day | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Goodrich to Rim, via the Hinterland | V 5.9 | George Hurley | 1st ascent of Glacier Pt Apron to Rim via Goodrich. 2nd or 3rd ascent of Hinterland. Bivy in U-shaped bowl. (Goodrich to the Oasis, and The Hinterland - Oasis to rim) | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Childhood's End | 5.10 | Rik Rieder | 8' below roof on 1st pitch. | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Sandi | Sandi belaying | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Steppin' Out | 5.10d | Rik Rieder | #7, fixed pin, 2 chockstones, bolt, 6" I-beam, 5" nut, 4" nut. | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Rt. side Folley | Rik Rieder | Pitches 1 & 2 freed (5.9), 3rd gardened | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | cleaning Rt. side Folley | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Independence - Left Side | 5.10 | Rick Sylvester | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney | 5.10a | Rik Rieder | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Chopper | 5.10c | Sandi | Sandi belaying (Chopper flake) 4th ascent. | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | L. side Childhood's End | 5.8 | Lou Dawson | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Twilight Zone | 5.10d | Lou Dawson | 4th or 5th ascent | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | Independence Pinnacle - Center | 5.10d | Lou Dawson | 1972-10-01 | Yosemite Valley | New Dimensions | 5.11a | Rik Rieder | 5th ascent. 1st all nut ascent. Located on Arch Rock. |
1973: | 1973-00 | 1972-1973 Winter Washington | 1973-00-02 | Washington | Leavenworth Crack, Icicle Creek | 5.9 | Thom Nephew, Cal Folsom | 1973-00 | 1973 Spring Yosemite | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Quickie Quizzes | 3 x 5.10 | Eric Perlman | Quickie Quizzes & Generator Crack Twice, same day | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 3 x 5.10c TR | Eric Perlman | Quickie Quizzes & Generator Crack Twice | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Twinkie | 5.10c | Chris Nelson | 1st ascent. Located on Cookie Cliff, left of Outer Limits. | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Peter Left | 5.10b | Mark Hesse | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Captain Crunch | 5.11b | Chris Nelson | 1st ascent | 1973-06-00 | Yosemite Valley | Jam Session | 5.10b | Matt Donahoe | 1973-06-00 | Yosemite Valley | Meat Grinder | 5.10c | Dale Bard | 1973-06-00 | Yosemite Valley | The Flake | 5.10b | Dale Bard | 1st ascent. aka "Sparkles." Located on Knobby Wall | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Ian Wade | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Entrance Exam | 5.9 | Ian Wade | Midterm & Entrance Exam same day | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Cookie - Left | 5.10a | Ian Wade | 1973-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Ahab | 5.10b | Mark Chapman | 1973-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Cream | 5.11a | Larry Bruce | 3rd ascent | 1973-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Secret Storm | 5.10a | Kris Walker | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Higher Cathedral Spire - East Corner | 5.10a | Ian Wade | (E. corner Higher Spire) 3rd or 4th ascent | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Yosemite Point Buttress - Direct | IV 5.9 | Ian Wade, Kris Walker | Direct YPB (Direct Yosemite Point Buttress) | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | 3D Reeds | 5.10 | Ian Wade, Chris Nelson | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Bongs Away - Center | 5.10a | Ian Wade, Chris Nelson | 3D Reeds & Center Bongs Away same day | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lower Cathedral Rock - East Buttress | IV 5.10c | Ian Wade | E. Buttress Lower Rock | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Higher Cathedral Rock - Northeast Buttress | IV 5.9 | Ed Barry | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Royal Arches | III 5.7 A0 | Craig Cutler, Jeff | 4th'ed with the two tension swings | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Wild Thing | IV 5.10c | Ian Wade | 1st ascent. Rixon's (center rt on The Folley) | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 3 pitches Salathe | 5.10 A1 | Chris Nelson | 3 pins aid | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.10a | Craig Cutler | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Absolutely Free - Center Route | 5.9 | Ian Wade | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Craig Cutler | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Salathe | 5.10 | Ian Wade | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Salathe Wall | VI, 5.10, A3 | Ian Wade | Salathe Wall 2 bivies: Hollow Flake Ledge & the Block, and one on top. My third El Cap climb. I did the free, Ian did the aid. | 1973-00 | 1973 Summer Colorado, during a break between OB classes. | 1973-06-00 | Boulder Canyon | By Gulley | 5.9 | Barry Vaugn, Peter Young | 1973-00-00 | Eldorado Canyon | W. Buttress Bastille | 5.9 | Barry Vaugn | 1973-06-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Twister | 5.10 | Barry Vaugn | (my eighth time) | 1973-00 | 1973 Late Summer Colorado, after OB | 1973-06-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Fat City | N.F. | Seto | 1973-06-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | The 44 | N.F. | George Hurley | 1973-00-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Hurley's Tree & Cicilian Defence | 5.9. 5.8 | 1973-06-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear | 5.10 | Dan McClure, Doug Snively | 1973-00-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Gollum's Arch | 5.10 | Dan McClure | 1973-00-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Wolf's Tooth | 5.8 | Dan McClure | 1973-00 | 1973 Autumn Yosemite | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Absolutely Free - Left Side | 5.9 | Randy Clark | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 2 x 5.10b | Randy Clark | twice | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | 3D Reeds | 5.10 | Randy Clark | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Peter Pan | 5.10 | Randy Clark | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Randy Clark | Peter Pan & Generator Crack same day. | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Basketcase | Vern Clevenger | Incredibly brushy approach to Basket Dome. We didn't reach the climb. Rather than backtrack through same the same brush, we repelled to the Valley. | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Patio Pinnacle - Right Side | 5.10 | Randy Clark | 5.8 ? | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Chingando | 5.10a | Vern Clevenger | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Goldrush | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | Chingando & Goldrush, same day | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | 2nd pitch 3D, twice | 2 x 5.9 | Hugh Burton | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Penny-Nickle Arete | 5.10 | Hugh Burton | On the lead, Hugh knocked a baseball sized rock down, and it hit the 4" wide tree I was belaying behind. | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Straightjacket | Chris Nelson | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Pharaoh's Beard - Regular Route | 5.9 | Chris Nelson | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Lou Dawson, Rick Sylvester | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.10a | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | 1973-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Ahab | 2 x 5.10b | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | Moby Dick - Center, L. Side Ahab twice, same day | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Chingando | 5.10a | Lou Dawson | 1973-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Henley Quits | 5.10a | Lou Dawson | Chingando & Henley Quits, same day | 1973-11-16 | Boulder | CU | Worked as climbing instructor for University of Colorado, teaching their only Advanced class. Did this for two years. |
1974: | 1974-06 | 1974 Spring Colorado | 1974-03-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper | 5.7 | Jerry Ferent | 1974-03-00 | Grand Course | 5.9 | Mike Yokell | 1974-06-00 | Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park | Crack of Fear | 5.10 | Larry Bruce | 6th time. | 1974-03-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Giraffe | 5.8 | Richard Sequig | 1974-00-00 | Boulder Canyon | Athlete's Feat | 5.10 | Roger Briggs | 1974-03-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Giraffe | 5.8 | Kris Walker, Bob Godfrey | 1974-03-00 | Split Rock | Fantasia 8 times | 5.8 | Testing Friends | 1974-00-00 | Boulder Canyon | Athlete's Feat 1&2 only | 5.10 | Mike Yokell, Bob Godfrey | 1974-00 | 1974 Spring Yosemite | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Reed's Triple Direct | 5.10 | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Bongs Away - Left | 5.8 | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Chingando | 5.10a | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | Reeds Triple direct, L. side Bongs Away, Chingando. same day. | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 2 x 5.10b | Lou Dawson | (Twice) This was the first Yosemite climb with Friends. | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Lou Dawson | Midterm & Generator Crack, same day | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 3 x 5.10c TR | Three times | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Outer Limits with 3rd pitch Twilight Zone finish, 1st on L. side Reed's Pinnacle | 5.10, 5.9 | Duncan Fergeson | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Nothing | 5.9 | Lou Dawson, Richard Jack | L. of Application | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Lou Dawson | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Andreas Maure | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Andreas Maure | Catchy, Lunatic Fringe same day | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Rixon's Pinnacle - West Face | IV 5.10c | Lou Dawson | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Secret Storm | 5.10a | Lou Dawson | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Ahab | 2 x 5.10b | Lou Dawson | (Twice) | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Lou Dawson | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.10a | Lou Dawson | Ahab twice, Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick Center, same day. | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | New Dimensions | 5.11a | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Stovelegs to El Cap Tower | V 5.10 | Lou Dawson | Reach ECT at 12:30 pm | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Nabisco Wall | 5.11a | Andreas Maure | with Bev tower start | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Last Word | 5.10 | Rick Sylvester | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side | 5.10a, 5.9 | Ian Wade | (L. Side Reeds) & 2nd on 3D | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Steck-Salathe | V 5.9 | Ian Wade | 10 hours | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Middle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress | V 5.10a | Thom Nephew | 10 hours | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Edge of Night | 5.10c | Lou Dawson | 1974-03-00 | Yosemite Valley | Chopper | 5.10c | Lou Dawson | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Edge of Night | 5.10c | Ian Wade | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Lou Dawson | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Stone Groove | 5.10b | Lou Dawson | Lunatic Fringe, Stone Groove, same day | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Ian Wade | 1974-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Ian Wade, Larry Bruce | 1974-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Nose | VI 5.10 A2 | Lou Dawson, Kris Walker | El Cap. Afternoon deluge at Camp IV lasts two hours, and forces a bivy at Camp V. We top out mid afternoon on our second day. |
1975: | 1975-00 | 1975 Spring Colorado | 1975-00-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Ruper | 5.7 | Kris Walker | 1975-03-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Course | 5.9 | 1975-02-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Anthill direct | 5.8 | 1975-00-00 | Split Rock | Fantasia | 5.8 | 1975-00-00 | Split Rock | F-1R (5.9), F-2R (5.9), F-3R (5.8) | Kris Walker | 1975-00-00 | Eldorado Canyon | Grand Giraffe (5.8) | Paula Crenshaw | Student from my advanced climbing class Colorado University | 1975-03-00 | Variation to Rewritten | 5.8+ | Steve Pomerance | 1975-03-00 | Var. to Vertigo | 5.9 | Kris Walker | 1975-03 | 1975 Spring Yosemite. 1975-03-13 Drive from CO to Yosemite with Doninni, Hesse & Wunsch | 1975-03-25 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Mark Hesse | 1975-03-27 | Yosemite Valley | Reeds 3D | 5.10 | Mark Hesse | After 7 operations on his hand, Mark is climbing amazingly well. (He had crushed his hand on a machine at work.) | 1975-03-28 | Yosemite Valley | Edge of Night | 5.10c | Mark Hesse | 1975-03-29 | Yosemite Valley | Gang Bang | 5.10a | Chris Nelson | & etc. 1st ascent. Goldrush area, rt of Siberian. I called this route "Gang Bang" because it was more like an assault with five other climbers (me in the lead), and also to go along with "Siberian SS" theme. | 1975-03-29 | Yosemite Valley | Hand Job | 5.10a | Chris Nelson | From journal: on a rock beneath Reed's Pinnacle, put up 4 new routes: two 5.9s and two 5.10s, all short but good cracks. | 1975-03-29 | Yosemite Valley | Cathode Ray | 5.10 | Cathy Dermitzakas | 1st ascent | 1975-04-08 | Yosemite Valley | Anathema | 5.10b | John Dill | Frustrating trying to get a nut in, and it won't fit and I strain and get tired and finally come down, and all the time I have those beautiful Friends in my locker because I can't reveal them yet. | 1975-04-09 | Yosemite Valley | Jo-Jo | 5.10 | John Dill, Chris Nelson | 1975-04-10 | Yosemite Valley | The Hourglass - Left Side | 5.11a R | Vern Clevenger | Vern's lead. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Cramming, 1st pitch N.D. t/r | 5.10d | John Dill | I show John the Friends. He says "A glimpse into the future." | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch New D., Midterm t/r | 5.10 | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Voyage | 5.10c | Vern Clevenger | 1st ascent. Arch Rock. Starts at the end of the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions. Thin finger. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Cramming | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | Friends allow Vern and I to climb all sorts of routes in rain and snow. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | This and That | 5.10c | Vern Clevenger | Cramming, This & That, same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Anticipation | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | & 4th pitch N.D. t/r | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Quickie Quizzes | 5.10a | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | 10.96 | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Goldrush | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | 1096, Goldrush same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Kris Walker | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Cookie - Left | 5.10a | Kris Walker | Lunatic Fringe, L.side Cookie same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Finger Licking' | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Vanishing Point | 2 x 5.10d | Kris Walker | twice | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Anathema | 5.10b | Kris Walker | Vanishing Point twice, the Anathema, same day | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Kris Walker | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Ahab | 5.10a | Kris Walker | Sacherer Cracker, Ahab, same day | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 3 pitches W. Buttress El Cap | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Leanie Meanie | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | in 1975 was called Leaning Meanie | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | the Enema | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly wafer | 5.10c | Bill Westbay | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Hairline | 5.11b | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Indubious Battle | 5.11a | Kris Walker | 1st ascent. Base of El Cap, west side. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Mental Block | 5.10c | Vern Clevenger, Kris Walker | 3rd ascent | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Vanishing Point | 5.10d | Kris Walker | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Jo-Jo | 2 x 5.10c | Kris Walker | Vanishing Point, Jo-Jo twice, same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | River Boulder - East Side | 3 x 5.11d | Three times | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | 4th pitch N.D. twice | 5.11 | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper, 4th N.D. 3 times | 5.10b | Kris Walker | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | The Folly - Right Side | 5.10d | Kris Walker | 3rd free ascent. aka The Good Book | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Paul Cowan | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Bishop's Jam | 5.8 | Linda | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Central Pillar of Frenzy | 5.9 | Paul Cowan, Linda | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Five and Dime | 5.10d | Thom Nephew | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Goldrush | 5.11b | Thom Nephew | Five & Dime, Goldrush same say. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Banana Dreams | 5.10a | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Five and Dime | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | Banana Dreams, Five & Dime same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Astroman | V 5.11c | Vern Clevenger | 1 bivy. 2nd ascent | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Olga's Trick | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Vern Clevenger | Olga's Trick, Lunatic Fringe same day. | 1975-05-01 | Yosemite Valley | Royal Arches | III 5.11 | I was free-soloing, and on the second traverse I leaned far over, in order to reach a tiny hold, and failed to notice that the hold was wet. My fingers slipped off, and I became airborne. However, I just managed to grip an even smaller hold (5.11) on the way past. That was a close one. No more free soloing for me. | 1975-05 | 1975 Summer Yosemite: On a week's break between OB classes, I travel to CA to visit Lynda. | 1975-00-00 | Touloumne, Yosemite | Great White Book | 5.7 | Linda | 1975-00 | 1975 Autumn Yosemite | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | 2nd pitch 3D Reeds | 5.9 | Linda | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Notch Route | 5.10b R | Paul Cowan | Pulpit Rock | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Moby Dick - Center | 5.9a | Paul Cowan | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Ahab | 5.10a | Paul Cowan | Moby Dick - Center & Ahab same day. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Betsy Pinnacle | 5.9 | Paul Cowan | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Paul Cowan | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | The Sermon | 5.10b | Rick Sylvester | Pulpit Rock | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Bridalveil East | 5.10c | Rick Sylvester | Midget Chimney. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 3 pitches Salathe | 5.10c, 5.8, 5.11 | Rick Sylvester | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Hotline | IV 5.10c, A1 | Rick Sylvester | Rope got jammed on the last rappel, and had to climb back up to free it. Finished the decent to the river in the dark, thrashing through the poison oak. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | El Capitan - East Buttress | IV 5.10 A1 | Rick Sylvester | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Power Failure | III 5.11a | Mark Vallance, Linda | 1st ascent. Washington Column. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Jesu Joy | II 5.10c | Rick Sylvester | 1st ascent. Named after the Bach Cantata. First called it "An Ode to Joy" | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Dwindling Energy | III 5.11b | Mark Vallance | 1st ascent. Washington Column. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10a | Mark Vallance | & 4th pitch New D. t/r | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | The Fang | 5.10b | Lou Dawson | 1st ascent. Washington Column. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Overhang Overpass | 5.11c | Vern Clevenger | 3rd ascent | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Arch Rock Circuit | 5.11 | Vern Clevenger | (Gripper 5.10a, 4th New D. t/r, Quickie Quizzes) | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Vern Clevenger | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Sidetrack | 5.11a | Vern Clevenger | 2nd ascent. Midterm & Sidetrack same day. | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Sixth Heaven | 5.10b | Frank Brown III | 1st ascent. Chapel Wall - Far Right. Frank named the route "6th Heaven" because I used a 6-hex on the roof. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Axis | 5.10d | Vern Clevenger | 2nd or 3rd ascent | 1975-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.11 A1 | Linda | 1st ascent but used aid. Oct 75. | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Jamcrack Route | 5.9 | George M., Bob Ashworth | Sunnyside Bench Jam | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lazy Bum | 5.10d | George M., Bob Ashworth | Sunnyside Bench Jam & Lazy Bum same day | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Arrowhead Arete | 5.9 | Matt Donahoe | 1975-10-00 | Yosemite Valley | Arch Rock Circuit | 5.11 | Vern Clevenger | (Gripper 5.10a, 4th New D. t/r, Quickie Quizzes) |
1976: | 1976-00 | 1976 Spring Yosemite | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Jimmie Dunn, Earl Wiggins | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Outer Limits | 5.10b | Jimmie Dunn, Earl Wiggins | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Meat Grinder | 5.10c | Jimmie Dunn, Earl Wiggins | Catchy, Outer Limits, Meat Grinder same day. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Mark Moore | (twice) | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Little Wing | 5.10d | Mark Moore | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Nutcracker | 5.8 | Linda | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Steppin' Out | 5.10d | Ron Kauk | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Mental Block | 5.10c | Ron Kauk | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Chockstone Chimney | IV 5.8 | Mark Moore | 1st free. Ribbon Creek Area. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper, 1st & 4th pitches New D. t/r | 5.10b | Mark Moore | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Rt & Center Cookie | 2 x 5.10 | Mark Moore | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Anathema | 5.10b | Mark Moore | Rt & Center Cookie, Anathema same day. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Ron Kauk, Bob Ashworth | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Wheat thin | 5.10c | Ron Kauk, Bob Ashworth | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs t/r | Ron Kauk, Bob Ashworth | Waverly Wafer, Wheat thin & Butterballs t/r same day. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Cleaning Crimson Cringe | Solo | Removing the dirt from the crack, and wire-brushing the left wall. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | Ron Kauk | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Nottingham Castle | II 5.10a | Mark Moore | 1st ascent. In the Ribbon Falls area. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Royal Cornpad | II 5.10a | Linda | 1st ascent. Royal Arches. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | Ron Kauk | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | John Yablonski | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs | 5.11c | John Yablonski | Waverly Wafer & Butterballs same day. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | The Lionheart | 5.10b | Mark Moore | 1st ascent. I called it "Dayspring III" but maybe Mark changed the name; OK by me. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Anticipation | 5.11b | John Yablonski | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Siberian Swarm Screw | 5.10a | Dave Hitchcock | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Childhood's End | John Yablonski | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | Linda | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Silver Platter | 5.10c | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Rt on plate; Rt of Porcelean Wall | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | Mark Moore | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Crimson Cringe | Linda | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | 2nd pitch free at 5.12 | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Cringe | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | III 5.12a | John Lakey | 1st free ascent. Located in the Cascade Falls area, just right of Fish Crack. A left-leaning crack which begins after 50 feet of face climbing up a knobby wall. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Childhood's End | II 5.11a | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Located on The Folly, up the hill and right of Rixon's | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Dwindling Energy | 5.11b | John Lakey | + 1 pitch | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Dinner Ledge & cleaning the Odyssey | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Dinner Ledge | 5.10a | Linda | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Gravity's Rainbow | II 5.10c | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Porcelain Wall, John found this route and named it after the book by Thomas Pynchon. He said there was a rainbow in the sky at the time. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | working on the Odyssey | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | working on the Odyssey | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | The Wedge | II 5.11b | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Located on Pat + Jack Pinnacle - Upper Right Tier. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | the Odyssey to Dinner Ledge | IV 5.11 | John Lakey | 1st ascent | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Odyssey - Dinner Ledge to B.F. Ledge | IV 5.11 | John Lakey | 1st ascent | 1976-00 | 1976 Autumn Yosemite | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | 1st & 2nd pitches Lunch Ledge Dir | 5.10b | Linda | First free of 1st & 2nd pitches Lunch Ledge Dir | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Space Case | III 5.10c | Linda | 1st ascent. Located on Washington's Column. Originally an aid route called Lunch Ledge Direct, by Chouinard and Reed in 1961. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Reality Check | III 5.10c | Linda | 1st ascent. This is a major crack system just left of Plumbline, Elephant Rock. Short 5.9 hand and fist up large blocks (belay at base of 20'' off-width), continue around short roof and up vertical hand crack to small alcove, belay at alcove. Equip: 1&2 Fr, medium & large nuts. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | the Odyssey | V 5.11d | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Located on Washington Column. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Trundling Juan | III 5.10b | John Lakey | 1st ascent. (Located on the east side Elephant Rock) This multi-pitch route had loose rocks everywhere, and would have been dangerous to climb without first cleaning from above. So a few days before our first ascent we repelled the route from the top. At every stance during the repel, John lowered off on a secondary safety rope while I belayed him. Doing this, he dislodged what seemed like tons of loose rocks. After we had cleaned the route, we had no problems on the first ascent from the ground up. However, there was one big flake on the lower section that refused to budge, even though we both worked on it, driving pitons behind it, then taking them out. We had to leave that flake there, and then during our ascent had to be careful while climbing around it. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Aiding and cleaning Supernova | John Lakey, Ian Wade | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Triple Direct | VI 5.9 A3 | Ian Wade, John Lakey | El Cap (VI, 5.9, A3) 2.5 days. I do all the free, Ian does the aid, and John does the hauling. My forth El Cap climb. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog Flyer | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt hangdog Flyer | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Rapppelled and cleaned Supernova Wall | John Lakey | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Supernova | III 5.11a | John Lakey | 1st ascent. (to top of finger crack) Galactic Wall. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | work on Hangdog Flyer | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Located on the western side of the Royal Arches area, and left of 10.96. A right leaning crack which joins 10.96 at its top. Equip: lots of #2's. My use of the word "Hangdog" was not intended to mean hanging on the pro. Instead I meant to describe the sensation of being "intimidated, then defeated" (as per the English definition of the word "hangdog") due to fatigue - then suddenly loosing grip and becoming a "Flier." I used the word "flier" because in those days I flew my hang glider to the Valley many of those early mornings. | 1976-00-00 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 2 x 5.10c | Barb Eastman | (twice) | 1975-03 | 1975 Summer Oregon | 1976-06-30 | Eugene | ~100 leads on the Columns | During break between OB classes | 1976-08 | Did not go to Yosemite Fall 1976 |
1977 | 1977-08 | 1977 Spring Yosemite | 1977-02-15 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | AL | 1977-02-16 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | Linda | 1977-02-19 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-02-24 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-02-25 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-02-28 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-02 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-04 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-05 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-07 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-08 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-11 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-12 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | John Lakey | I lead with fixed pro | 1977-03-15 | Yosemite Valley | Skunk rap & Clean | John Lakey | Left of Tales of Power in the Separate Reality area. | 1977-03-18 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-19 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-20 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-21 | Yosemite Valley | Skunk, clean & work on start | John Lakey | 1977-03-22 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | John Lakey | 1977-03-23 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | John Lakey | Nothing fixed. My 1st free ascent. (Vally's first non-yo-yoing ascent.) | 1977-03-25 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Obscure Destiny | John Lakey | L. of Tales of Power | 1977-03-27 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | John Lakey | 1977-03-28 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Obscure Destiny | John Lakey | 1977-03-29 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Obscure Destiny | John Lakey | 1977-04-02 | Yosemite Valley | Obscure Destiny | II 5.11a | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Separate Reality area, left of Tales of Power. | 1977-04-03 | Yosemite Valley | Skunk Crack | II 5.11b | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Separate Reality area, left of Tales of Power. | 1977-04-04 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-05 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-07 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-08 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-09 | Yosemite Valley | rap Phoenix wall to base | John Lakey | 1977-04-10 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | Linda | 1977-04-11 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | Linda | 1977-04-13 | Yosemite Valley | clean Phoenix | Solo | 1977-04-15 | Yosemite Valley | work on Phoenix | Linda | 1977-04-19 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-20 | Yosemite Valley | work on Phoenix | 1977-04-21 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-23 | Yosemite Valley | work on Phoenix | 1977-04-24 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-25 | Yosemite Valley | work on Phoenix | 1977-04-26 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-04-29 | Yosemite Valley | Phoenix with 3 rests | John Lakey | 1977-04-30 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | 1977-04-30 | Yosemite Valley | Cookie Caves | Short Circuit, Cookie Caves. Rain | 1977-05-02 | Yosemite Valley | work on Owl Roof | 1977-05-03 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Owl Roof | John Lakey | This was the day John led it, upside down. 1st ascent | 1977-05-04 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix | 1977-05-05 | Yosemite Valley | Owl Roof | 5.12 | John Lakey | My 1st ascent. (2013: I ran across an account of the history of Yosemite Free Climbing saying I wasn't aware that Dale and Ron had already climbed the Owl Roof free, before John's and my ascents. Who ever wrote that was mistaken. I lived in the Valley with Dale and Ron, and met them almost every day, in the Camp 4 bouldering areas in the late afternoons and elsewhere around the valley. We were good friends and we knew what each other was climbing almost every day. They had climbed the Owl Roof before, but the first time they climbed it free was a few days after John and me.) | 1977-05-07 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix | John Lakey | Dave H. photographing. Rain | 1977-05-08 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix | John Lakey | 1977-05-09 | Yosemite Valley | Freed Phoenix from upper belay | 5.12 | Our "upper belay" was a hanging belay below the traverse. After that we came back and starting working on the lower part, and named the route the mythological "Phoenix" because we started over from scratch and made the route more difficult. | 1977-05-13 | Yosemite Valley | clean lower Phoneix | 1977-05-14 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix II | John Lakey | 1977-05-16 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix II | John Lakey | 1977-05-17 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix II | John Lakey | 1977-05-18 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix II | John Lakey | George M. photographing | 1977-05-19 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Phoenix II | John Lakey | 1977-05-20 | Yosemite Valley | The Phoenix | 5.13a | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Located on upper left wall of the Cascade Falls amphitheater. Approach via rappell. Can be seen by driving up 120, parking on the first turnout to the left after passing the Owl, and walking down the hill a short distance. | 1977-05-24 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Bill Price | I couldn't lead, but followed OK | 1977-05-26 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Vern Clevenger | 1977-05-27 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe w/ 1 hang | Vern Clevenger | George M. photographing | 1977-05-30 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Dog's Woof | Dave Yerian | 1977-05-31 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Dog's Woof | Dave Yerian | 1977-06-01 | Yosemite Valley | Dog's Woof | 5.12b * | Dave Yerian | 1st ascent. Wawona Tunnel - West End | 1977-06-02 | Yosemite Valley | reconnoiter Rostrum Roof | 1977-06-03 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Rostrum Roof | Linda | 1977-06-04 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Rostrum Roof | Linda | 1977-06-06 | Yosemite Valley | Work on Rostrum Roof | Linda | The days are getting hot, so we have to start climbing at daybreak. | 1977-06-07 | Yosemite Valley | Rostrum Roof | 5.12b | Linda | 1st free ascent. Kauk and Bachar had freed the Rostrum up to the roof pitch, then they climbed a system to the right, to the top. Linda and I rappelled from the top and freed the roof and final crack of the Rostrum route. | 1977-06-08 | Yosemite Valley | Tales of Power | 5.12b | rap Phoenix. End of season | 1977-06 | Trip to the UK to help develop Friends for manufacture. | 1977-06-15 | England | Puppet | 5.8 | Chatsworth Edge, date at Chatsworth approx | 1977-06-15 | England | Sentinel | n/f | Chatsworth Edge | 1977-06-15 | England | Emerald Crack | n/f | Chatsworth Edge | 1977-06-18 | England | Strand | 5.9 | Anglessey, Wales sea cliffs | 1977-06-18 | England | Hesterisis | 5.10d | possible 1st free ascent | 1977-06-19 | England | Supercrack | 5.10c | Martin Wragg | 2nd free ascent | 1977-06-21 | England | L. Unconcorable | 5.10a | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-21 | England | Rt. Unconcorable | 5.9 | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-21 | England | Flying Buttress Dir. | 5.9+ | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-22 | England | Medusa | 5.9 | Stoney Middleton, Limestone | 1977-06-22 | England | Dead Banana | 5.10a | Stoney Middleton, Limestone | 1977-06-22 | England | Attempt Bitterfingers | 5.11? | Stoney Middleton, Limestone | 1977-06-23 | England | Peapod | 5.9 | Curber Edge | 1977-06-23 | England | Insanity | 5.10d | Curber Edge | 1977-06-23 | England | l'Horla | 5.9 or 5.10a | Curber Edge | 1977-06-24 | England | Lion's Corner House | 5.8 | Lyn Noble | Millstone, grit | 1977-06-24 | England | Oxford Street w/1 pt | Lyn Noble | Millstone, grit | 1977-06-24 | England | Great North Road | 5.8+ | Lyn Noble | Millstone, grit | 1977-06-25 | England | Regents Street | 5.10c | Mark Vallance | Millstone, grit | 1977-06-25 | England | Oxford Street | 5.10d | Mark Vallance | 2nd free ascent | 1977-06-25 | England | Bond Street | 5.8+ | Mark Vallance | Millstone, grit | 1977-06-26 | England | Goliath's Groove | 5.8 | Clive | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-26 | England | Wall End Slab dir | 5.8 | Clive | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-26 | England | Quietus | 5.10c | Clive | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-26 | England | Count's Buttress | 5.9 | Clive | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-26 | England | Worked on roof L. of Baw's Crawl | Clive | Stannage Edge | 1977-06-26 | England | new Rt 20 yards L. of Baw's Crawl | 5.9 | Clive | 1st ascent | 1977-06-28 | England | Terraza Crack | 5.9 | Mark Vallance | Stannage-Wall End | 1977-06-28 | England | Attempt Harvest | Mark Vallance | Stannage-Wall End | 1977-06-29 | England | Twicker | 5.10b | Jim Reading | Millstone | 1977-07-02 | England | Suicide Wall | 5a, 5.8 | Jim Reading | Cratcliffe Tor | 1977-07-02 | England | Fernhill | 5c, 5.10b | Jim Reading | Cratcliffe Tor | 1977-07-02 | England | 5-finger exercise | 5c, 5.10b | Jim Reading | Cratcliffe Tor | 1977-07-02 | England | Requiem | 5c, 5.10c | Jim Reading | Cratcliffe Tor | 1977-07-03 | England | The Sloth (twice) | 5.8 | Linda | Linda followed. The Roaches | 1977-07-03 | England | Walleroo | 5.10a | Mark Vallance | unprotected! | 1977-07-03 | England | the Crack of Gloom | 5.10a | The Roaches | 1977-07-04 | England | Billy Whizz | 5.10b | Lawerencefield | 1977-07-05 | England | Emerald crack | 5.10c | Chatsworth | 1977-07-06 | England | Attempt roof crack | Baldstones | 1977-07-07 | England | Cenotaph Corner | 5.8 or 5.9 | Mark Vallance, Linda | Dinas Cromlech | 1977-07-08 | England | November | 5.9+ | Mark Vallance | Cloggy | 1977-07-08 | England | Scorpio | 5.9 | Mark Vallance | Cloggy | 1977-07-09 | England | pin Cushion | 5.10a | Tremadoc | 1977-07-10 | England | Sentinel Crack (twice) | 5.10d | Chatsworth & Gardoms | 1977-07-10 | England | Rt. Hand pillar Crack | 5.10a | Roger & Pete | Pulling Friends from under my shirt, stuffing them deep in the crack, down-climbing to retrieve Friend. Strange leader! But we had fun climbing. | 1977-07-10 | England | Central Crack | 5.9 | Roger & Pete | Chatsworth & Gardoms | 1977-07-10 | England | Gardom's Unconquerable | 5.8 | Roger & Pete | Chatsworth & Gardoms | 1977-07-10 | England | Hearse Arete dir. | 5.9 | Roger & Pete | Chatsworth & Gardoms | 1977-07-12 | England | Cave Crack | 5.10c | Froggatt Edge | 1977-07-12 | England | Big crack | 5.10b | Froggatt Edge | 1977-07-12 | England | Brown's Eliminate | 5.8 | Mark Vallance | No pro. Mark's lead | 1977-07-12 | England | Valkyrie | 5.8+ | Froggatt Edge | 1977-07-13 | England | Embankment Rt 4 | 5c | Millstone | 1977-07-13 | England | Embankment Rt 3 | 5b | Millstone | 1977-07-13 | England | Embankment Rt 1 | 5c | Millstone | 1977-07-14 | England | Brown Corner | 4c, 5.9 | Stoney Middleton | 1977-07-14 | England | Jasper | 5c, 5.10c | Stoney Middleton | 1977-07-15 | England | Scoop Wall | 5b+, 5.10b | Stoney Middleton | 1977-07-16 | England | Checquer's Crack | 5b, 5.10a | Frogatt Edge | 1977-07-16 | England | Stiff Cheese | 5c, 5.10c | Frogatt Edge | 1977-07-16 | England | Checquer's Buttress | 5a, 5.8 | Frogatt Edge | 1977-07-16 | England | Deadbay Crack | 5a, 5.9 | Frogatt Edge | 1977-07-17 | England | M1 | 5.10a, 5.9 | High Tor | 1977-07-19 | England | The Rasp | 5c, 5.10b | Haggar Tor | 1977-07-19 | England | Flute of Hope dir | 5c, 5.10c,d | Haggar Tor | 1977-07-21 | England | the Grooves | 5.8 | Cyrn Las | 1977-07-22 | England | Pterradactyl | 5.8 | Craig Y Forwen | 1977-07-22 | England | Attempt Great Wall | Craig Y Forwen | 1977-07-24 | England | Forked Lightning Crack | 5.9 or 10a | Heptomstall, Yorkshire | 1977-07-24 | England | Thin Red Line | 5.10b | Heptomstall, Yorkshire | 1977-07-24 | England | Demarara | 5.10a | Heptomstall, Yorkshire | 1977-07-24 | England | Senility | 5.8 | Heptomstall, Yorkshire | 1977-07-26 | England | Gates of mordor | 5.10a | Millstone | 1977-07-26 | England | Brimstone | 5.10b | Millstone | 1977-07-27 | England | Attempt Brown's Roof | Stoney Middleton | 1977-07-30 | England | Bachelors Left-Hand (twice) | 5a, 5.8 | Hen Cloud | 1977-07-30 | England | Delstree | 5a, 5.9 | Hen Cloud | 1977-07-30 | England | Hen Cloud Eliminate | 5c, 5.9 | Hen Cloud | 1977-07-30 | England | Encouragement (twice) | 5b, 5.10a | Hen Cloud | 1977-07-31 | England | Orang Outang | 5b, 5.10b | Dave Gregory | Stannage Edge | 1977-07-31 | England | Terraza Crack & Harvest | 5.9, 5.11a | Dave Gregory | Stannage Edge | 1977-07-31 | England | 90% of Buffoon | Dave Gregory | Stannage Edge | 1977-07-31 | England | Zapple | 5a, 5.9 | Yarncliffe | 1977-07-31 | England | Fallpipe | 4, 5.7 | Yarncliffe | 1977-08-02 | England | Attempt roof | Baldstones | 1977-08-02 | England | Ramshaw Crack | 6a, 5.10a | Ramshaw | 1977-08-03 | England | the Arete | 5b, 5.9 | Tintwistle Knarr Quarry | 1977-08-03 | England | Kershaw's krackers (twice) | 5.10c | Tintwistle Knarr Quarry | 1977-08-03 | England | Poteen | 5.10a | Tintwistle Knarr Quarry | 1977-08-03 | England | ? | 5.10c | Tintwistle Knarr Quarry | 1977-08-04 | England | Attempt roof | Baldstones | 1977-08-06 | England | Inlern & Eastern hammer | 5.10d | Gimmer Crag, Lake District | 1977-08-07 | England | Gimmer String | 5.9 | Scafell, East Buttress | 1977-08-07 | England | Phoenix | 5.9, 5.10a | Pitches 1 & 2, then a new finish up the r. hand arete | 1977-08-08 | England | Baldstones Roof | 5.11c | Baldstones, 1st ascent | 1977-08-09 | England | Sirplum | Cheedale | 1977-08-11 | England | ? | Ramshaw | 1977-08-12 | England | Attempt London Wall | Millstone. Sandbaged. Mark suggested this route, and drove us to it, but just happened to "forget" the needed small nuts. (He removed them from our gear bags before leaving his home). And it just happened to be the day before I was to fly back to the US. (To me, climbing was just climbing; but to many British climbers, it was sometimes a matter of national pride, and they don't want to see foreigners bagging their hardest routes. But it was all good fun, and I enjoyed the British climbing, people and the culture very much. | 1977-08 | 1977 Autumn did not go to Yosemite |
1978: | 1978-02-23 | Milwaukee, OR | Start of Jardine Enterprises | First person in the US to buy Friends was the customs import agent handling the first shipment into the US. He happened to be a climber. | 1978-03 | 1978 February: Went to Yosemite too early, and was plagued by snow and rain. So after climbing just one route, returned to Oregon to find a job, because I was low on money. | 1978-02-08 | Yosemite Valley | Midterm | 5.10b | Allan Macintosh | 1978-02-25~ | Start selling Freinds | 1978-03 | Begin 1978 Spring climbing season. From journal: "SUN! The California kid (cartoon of smiling sun), lots of 5.12 climbing, hang gliding, pull-ups, bouldering and yoga." | 1978-03-10 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Chris Ballinger | 1978-03-10 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Chris Ballinger | Lunatic Fringe & Short Circuit same day. | 1978-03-12 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Trix | Chris Ballinger | rain | 1978-03-13 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Chris Ballinger, Dale Bard | 1978-03-13 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy Corner | 5.11a | Chris Ballinger, Dale Bard | Catchy & Catchy Coo same day. (Dale had done the first ascent, and referred to the route as "Catchy Coo." | 1978-03-14 | Yosemite Valley | Trix | 5.11a | Chris Ballinger | 1st ascent. | 1978-03-15 | Yosemite Valley | 1st & 2nd pitches Dinner Ledge | 5.10 | Chris Ballinger, Carl Mattson | 1978-03-15 | Yosemite Valley | Jo-Jo | 5.10c | Chris Ballinger, Carl Mattson | (twice) 1st & 2nd pitches Dinner Ledge, Jo-Jo (twice) same day. | 1978-03-16 | Yosemite Valley | My-Toe-Sis | 5.11b * | Chris Ballinger | 1st ascent. Named the route "Mytoesis" but I like the guidebook's name "My-Toe-Sis" better, so will default to that. Chris' name for the route was "Vulva Dentada" because the crack is pretty rough and tends to shred the hands.) Up and left of the Wedge on the Cascade Wall. | 1978-03-17 | Yosemite Valley | Showed Friends to climbers for the first time. Don't have any for sale quite yet. Will sell them for $17.50, sizes 1-3. | 1978-03-18 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | 1978-03-19 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Carl Mattson | Wet | 1978-03-20 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.11c | Carl Mattson | 1978-03-20 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs | 5.11c | Carl Mattson | 1978-03-23 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Carl Mattson | 1978-03-24 | Yosemite Valley | fall off boulder and injure back | Bedridden for two days. | 1978-03-27 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | 1978-04-05 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Dean Pascall | 1978-04-08 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Vern Clevenger | 1978-04-27 | Yosemite Valley | Weted off Tales of Power | Vern Clevenger | 1978-04-28 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Dean Pascall | 1978-04-29 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Vern Clevenger | Dean P. & Tom Carter photographing | 1978-05-05 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Dean Pascall | 1978-05-05 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Dean Pascall | 1978-05-08 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Mike & Dusty | 1978-05-09 | Yosemite Valley | D. D. | Took D. D. on a short easy climb, and finished with a rappel. Rap S.R. with Bill and Kim. | 1978-05-10 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Richard Jack | Bill & Kim photographing | 1978-05-11 | Yosemite Valley | Check out Elephant's Eliminate | Richard Jack | 1978-05-12 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Elephant's Eliminate | 1978-05-13 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Elephant's Eliminate | 1978-05-14 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Elephant's Eliminate | Richard Jack | 1978-05-16 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Elephant's Eliminate | Mike Comb | 1978-05-17 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Elephant's Eliminate | Mike Comb | 1978-05-20 | Yosemite Valley | Elephant's Eliminate | 5.12d | John Lakey | 1st ascent. There's a good heal-toe rest at the lip if you like hanging up-side down. From a bomber hand jam near the lip, super lunge to thin finger jam. | 1978-09 | Start of '78 Fall climbing Season | 1978-09-20 | Yosemite Valley | Rap Obscure Destiny | John Lakey | Separate Reality area. | 1978-09-21 | Yosemite Valley | Uncertain Ending | 5.10b | John Lakey | 1st ascent. Crack L. of Obscure Destiny. Separate Reality area. | 1978-09-22 | Yosemite Valley | Check out Cosmic Ray | crack on Reed's Pinnacle | 1978-09-23 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | 1978-09-25 | Yosemite Valley | Film on Rostrum | 1978-09-30 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Martin Wragg | 1978-10-02 | Yosemite Valley | Crack L. of Pharo's Beard | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-04 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 2 x 5.10d | (twice) | 1978-10-04 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Catchy (twice), Short Circuit same day. | 1978-10-05 | Yosemite Valley | Steck-Salathe | 5.9 | Mark Vallance | 9 hours | 1978-10-06 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-07 | Yosemite Valley | New Dimensions | 5.11a | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-08 | Yosemite Valley | Hotline 1st & 2nd pitches | 5.12 | Sibylle Hechtel | 1978-10-09 | Yosemite Valley | Pink Dreams | 5.10a | Mark Vallance | Back then we called it "Pink Dreams" with an "s." Also we Checked out route called Fatal Mistake. | 1978-10-11 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-12 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Martin Wragg | 1978-10-13 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Separate Reality | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-14 | Yosemite Valley | Jo-Jo | Mark Vallance | 1978-10-15 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Dave Altman | 1978-10-16 | Yosemite Valley | Middle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress | 5.10a | Mark Vallance | 5 1/2 hours | 1978-10-17 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Mark Vallance | Mark attempts to lead | 1978-10-18 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Bill Price | 1978-10-19 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Mark Vallance, Kerry Kilgore | 1978-10-25 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Dave Altman | 1978-10-26 | Yosemite Valley | Cramming | 5.10d | Kerry Kilgore | 1978-10-27 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Dave Altman | 1978-10-28 | Yosemite Valley | Dancin' Days | 5.11c | Dave Altman, Sheri | 1978-10-28 | Yosemite Valley | Pink Dreams | 5.10a | Mark Vallance | 1978-11-01 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Dogs Woof | Dave Altman | 1978-11-02 | Yosemite Valley | Tales of Power | 5.12b | Dave Altman | 1978-11-02 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Dave Altman | Tales of Power, Separate Reality, Crimson Cringe same day. | 1978-11-02 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Dave Altman | Tales of Power, Separate Reality, Crimson Cringe same day | 1978-11-03 | Yosemite Valley | Orangutan Arch | 5.11b | Dave Altman | 1978-11-04 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Dave Altman | 1978-11-06 | Yosemite Valley | New Dimensions | 5.11a | Dave Jones | 1978-11-06 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Dave Jones | New Dimensions, Short Circuit same day | 1978-11-07 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Bill Price | 1978-11-09 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Bill Price, Dave Jones | 1978-12-07 | Yosemite Valley | B&B | 5.10a | Rick Cashner, Frank Brown III | 1st ascent. Last Resort Cliff. | 1978-12-09 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Bob Williams | 1978-12-09 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 3 x 5.11d | Bob Williams | (3 times) Catchy & Short circuit (3 times) same day. | 1978-12-11 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 2 x 5.10c | Werner Braun | twice | 1978-12-11 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Werner Braun | Lunatic Fringe (x2), Short Circuit same day | 1978-12-12 | Yosemite Valley | Clean Cosmic Ray | Kim Smitz | crack on Reed's Pinnacle | 1978-12-13 | Yosemite Valley | Clean Cosmic Ray | Glen Pol | crack on Reed's Pinnacle | 1978-12-14 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c + 2 TR | Glen Pol, Bob Fin, Vanessa | Bob and Vanissa and I went to do Lunatic Fringe, and discovered four other people already on it but struggling in vain. I led through, and everyone else followed. I TR'ed it twice again, and the last rap I clipped into my fixed rope for the descent and stepped off, only to discover that someone (Jason) had untied it. Whizz... I probably owe my life to the fact that I like to be belayed whenever possible. | 1978-12-16 | Yosemite Valley | Clean Cosmic Ray | crack on Reed's Pinnacle | 1978-12-21 | Yosemite Valley | Clean Cosmic Ray | Werner Braun | crack on Reed's Pinnacle | 1978-12-21 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Werner Braun | 1978-12-21 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c + 2 TR | Bob Fin, Vanessa | three times | 1978-12-24 | Boulder Mt. Woodson | Can't fly Torrey so drive to Woodson. |
1979: | 1979-02 | Spring '79 Yosemite climbing season. 100 pullups most days, and lots of bouldering. | 1979-02-24 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Dave Yerian, Matt | 1979-02-24 | Yosemite Valley | att Short Circuit | Dave Yerian, Matt | 1979-02-27 | Yosemite Valley | Clean & attempt Cosmic Ray | Don R. | new rt on Reed's Pinnacle | 1979-02-27 | Yosemite Valley | Short Circuit | 5.11d | Don R. | 1979-02-28 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Rick Cashner | 1979-02-28 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Butterballs | Rick Cashner | 1979-02-28 | Yosemite Valley | Generator Crack | 5.10c TR | Rick Cashner | Waverly Wafer, attempt Butterballs, Generator Crack same day. | 1979-03-02 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Rick Cashner | 1979-03-02 | Yosemite Valley | 2nd pitch L. of Anathema | Rick Cashner | Catchy & 2nd pitch L. of Anathema same day. | 1979-03-03 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Rick Cashner | 1979-03-04 | Yosemite Valley | Cosmic Ray | 5.11a | Rick Cashner | 1st ascent. Reed's Pinnacle Area - Right. | 1979-03-04 | Yosemite Valley | Five and Dime | 5.10d | Rick Cashner | Cosmic Ray, Five and Dime same day. | 1979-03-08 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Rick Cashner | 1979-03-08 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Butterballs | Rick Cashner | 1979-03-09 | Yosemite Valley | English Breakfast Crack | 5.10c | Werner Braun, Ron Kauk | 1979-03-10 | Yosemite Valley | Check out Rt. on Elephant Rock | Werner Braun | 1979-03-11 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Rick Cashner, Frank Brown III | 1979-03-11 | Yosemite Valley | Shattered | 5.10d | Rick Cashner, Frank Brown III | 1st ascent. on the Last Resort Cliff, Upper Tier. Frank had done the route earlier with Steve Baca, with one move of aid. I led up to the move on the sharp flake and belayed below it, making it 2 shorter pitches. Frank led the next part free. | 1979-03-12 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Don R. | 1979-03-12 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs | 5.11c | Don R. | 1979-03-13 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt hangdog | Vern Clevenger, Don R. | 1979-03-14 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Atomic Finger Crack | Rick Cashner, Don R., Vern Clevenger | 1979-03-16 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Rick Cashner | SNOW | 1979-03-17 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Vern Clevenger, Rick Cashner | 1979-03-20 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Atomic Finger Crack | Rick Cashner, Don R. | 1979-03-21 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt hangdog | Bill Critchlow | 1979-03-24 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Atomic Finger Crack. | Bill Critchlow | Free to rest knob | 1979-03-25 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Dave Reynolds | 1979-03-26 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Atomic Finger Crack | Rick Cashner | 1979-03-30 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Paul Olephant | 1979-03-31 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Paul Olephant | 1979-04-01 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Paul Olephant | 1979-04-02 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Atomic Finger Crack | Rick Cashner | 1979-04-04 | Yosemite Valley | Sport jumping Reeds 3-D | Chick Holtkamp, Eric Perlman, Dan | 1979-04-05 | Yosemite Valley | Atomic Finger Crack w/yo-yoing | Rick Cashner | 1979-04-07 | Yosemite Valley | Check out Dale's World's hardest | Dale Bard | 1979-04-08 | Yosemite Valley | Atomic finger Crack | 5.12a | Rick Cashner | 1st free ascent. Eric Perlman filming. Last Resort - Upper Tier. | 1979-04-09 | Yosemite Valley | Ready or Not | 5.11a | Rick Cashner | 1st ascent. On Last Resort - Upper Tier. | 1979-04-09 | Yosemite Valley | Neutron Escape | 5.10a | Rick Cashner | 1st ascent. Last Resort - Upper Tier (I didn't have this route in my log, nor in my memory. But somehow it's in the guidebooks, so am including it here.) | 1979-04-09 | Yosemite Valley | Radioactive | 5.11a | Rick Cashner | 1st ascent. Last Resort - Upper Tier. (I didn't have this route in my log, nor in my memory. But somehow it's in the guidebooks, so am including it here.) | 1979-04-12 | Yosemite Valley | Clean Duflickus, on Elephant Rock | Bill Critchlow | Free last pitch. | 1979-04-13 | Yosemite Valley | Help clean the approch to Dale's "World's Hardest." | Dale Bard | Dale found the route and called it "World's Hardest." He talked me into going on a cleaning mission with gloves and shrubbery clippers, in order to clear the approach of the poison oak which was growing thickly in that area. We were pulling it out by hand for hours, and boy did we ever get a case of the rashes! I never did touch the route, but took one look and said "you gotta be kidding." I remember Dale giving up that project just after that, I think I might convinced him that it wasn't worth it. Or maybe he didn't want to deal with that poison oak again. I never actually saw Dale take a hammer to that crack, or any others. But years later Bachar supposedly climbed it, and re-named it "Dale's pin job." And to me, that doesn't make sense. If Dale had pinned out the crack, he would have also climbed it. He was one of the top climbers at the time, nearly on par with Bachar. Instead, I think Bachar (or someone else) might have pinned out the crack, then gave it the deceptive name to cover for themselves. | 1979-04-14 | Yosemite Valley | 4th pitch rostrum, 1st pitch Blind Faith | Dale Bard | 1979-04-15 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 5.12a | Bill Critchlow | 1979-04-16 | Yosemite Valley | Clean and attempt Duflickus | Bill Critchlow | 1979-04-18 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Rick Cashner | Without belay at knob. | 1979-04-20 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Dave Altman | 1979-04-21 | Yosemite Valley | Duflickus | 5.11 | Bill Critchlow | 1st ascent. R. side Elephant Rock. | 1979-04-22 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 3 x 5.12a | Susie | (3 times) | 1979-04-26 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Vern Clevenger, Rick Cashner | To the ledge in the rain!! If you get to the ledge at the half-way point, you have the route bagged. The 2nd half is not much worth repeating if you have already done it before. (We were repeating these hard routes just for the work-out.) | 1979-04-27 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Phoenix | Vern Clevenger | 1979-04-28 | Yosemite Valley | Separate Reality | 4 x 5.12a | Susie | (4 times) Led it clean all four times, pulling the gear after each time. | 1979-04-29 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Vern Clevenger | (to the ledge) Susie bystanding. | 1979-04-30 | Yosemite Valley | New Rt. on L. side Elephant Rock | Susie | 1st ascent. | 1979-05-03 | Yosemite Valley | Recon W. Face El Cap | Susie | 1979-05-02 | Yosemite Valley | Film Separate Reality | 3 x 5.12a | Susie | Fell off during my first try, then led 3 more times. Was with a TV film crew from San F. They also hired Dale and Ron, but I was the only one willing to chance the lead on film. | 1979-05-05 | Yosemite Valley | W. Face El Cap, 1st pitch free | Susie | "The first pitch will never go free." they said. Freed the first pitch today. Rain | 1979-05-07 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Elaine Brook | (to the ledge) | 1979-05-08 | Yosemite Valley | All American Hand Crack | Rick Cashner | 1979-05-09 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Dog's Woof | Susie | 100 p/u | 1979-05-10 | Yosemite Valley | Hangdog Flyer | 5.12c | Bill Critchlow | Bill Wood Filming. 100 p/u A photo appeared in this book: http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Magazines/1999-The-Best-of-Rock-and-Ice/index.htm | 1979-05-11 | Yosemite Valley | Filming on Rostrum Roof | Bill Critchlow | Bill Wood Filming | 1979-05-14 | Yosemite Valley | W. face, 1st & 2nd pitches | Susie | Freed 2nd pitch, and it looks good above. Hot in the Valley! | 1979-05-15 | Yosemite Valley | Energy Crisis | 5.11d | Rick Cashner | 1979-05-17 | Yosemite Valley | W. face | Bill Price | Bill and I freed the first seven pitches, and then pulled our gear and ropes. | 1979-05-20 | Yosemite Valley | El Capitan - West Face | VI 5.11c | Bill Price | West Face El Cap, free. In one day (VI, 5.11) 21 pitches overall, 12 pitches of 5.11. 4th 1-day ascent of El Cap. First free ascent of a grade VI in the country. First free ascent of an El Cap big wall. My fifth El Cap climb. Bill Price and I got up at 3:00 and started climbing. We did the whole route, got to the top and ran all the way down the backside for two hours to get to the final 3 rappels just before it got pitch dark, and arrived back in the valley for a bivouac-less ascent. | 1979-05-28 | Yosemite Valley | Hike up Teneya with J. Bridwell | Jim Bridwell | 1979-08 | 1979 Summer in the UK. | 1979-08-16 | England | Contreau | 4a, 5.8 | Susie | Stoney Middleton | 1979-08-16 | England | Minus Ten | 4c, 5.7 | Susie | Stoney Middleton | 1979-08-16 | England | Sin | 4c, 5.7 | Susie | Stoney Middleton | 1979-08-18 | England | Checker's Crack | 5a, 5.9 | Mark Vallance, Nick Longland | Froggatt | 1979-08-18 | England | Broken Crack | 4b, 5.8 | Mark Vallance, Nick Longland | Froggatt | 1979-08-18 | England | Tody's Wall | 5a, 5.8 | Mark Vallance, Nick Longland | Froggatt | 1979-08-18 | England | 3 Pebble Slab | 5a, 5.8 | Mark Vallance, Nick Longland | Un-pro | 1979-08-18 | England | Attempt Synopsis | Mark Vallance, Nick Longland | un-pro | 1979-08-19 | England | Debotchery | 5a,b 5.9 | Mark Vallance, Steve Bean | Matlock | 1979-08-19 | England | Orpheus (3 times) | 5.10a | Bircher's Edge | 1979-08-20 | England | Windover | 5.9 | Stoney Middleton | 1979-08-21 | England | Dexterity | 5b, 5.10a | Millstone | 1979-08-21 | England | Supra Dir | 5a, 5.10a | Millstone | 1979-08-21 | England | Embankment #3 | 5b, 5.9 | Millstone | 1979-08-22 | England | John Peel | 5.10b | Stoney | 1979-08-23 | England | Tim Lewis, editor of Mountain, swings by the shop to take a picture of me for his magazine. He only took one picture, and I happened to blink! Photo appeared Mt. | 1979-08-25 | England | Gates of Mordor | 5.9 | Stoney | 1979-08-25 | England | Dead Banana | 5b, 5.10b | Stoney | 1979-08-25 | England | Padme | 5a, 5.8+ | Stoney | 1979-08-26 | England | Kayak | Curbar | 1979-08-26 | England | Avalanche Wall | Curbar | 1979-08-26 | England | Scroach | 5c | Curbar | 1979-08-26 | England | Predator | 5c | Curbar | 1979-08-27 | England | Rubber Neck | 5b | The Roaches, 3rd cloud | 1979-08-27 | England | Crabby's Crack | The Roaches, 3rd cloud | 1979-08-27 | England | Attempt the Finger Eater | Hen Cloud | 1979-08-28 | England | The File | 5a, 5.9 | Higgor Tor | 1979-08-28 | England | The Rasp | 5c, 5.10c | Higgor Tor | 1979-08-29 | England | Carl's Work Crack | 5b, 5.10a+ | Stoney | 1979-08-29 | England | Armageddon | 5a, 5.9 | Stoney | 1979-09-01 | England | Vector with Croacker finish | 5c, 5.10c | Tremadog | 1979-09-01 | England | Legslip | 5a, 5.9 | Tremadog | 1979-09-01 | England | Mountain #69, Sep-Oct 79 | Pg. 17, El Cap Done Free. Pg. 36, Who's Your Friend? by Alec Sharp. Pg. 42, A Friend In Need by Eric Perlman. | 1979-09-04 | England | Great West Road | 5.b?, 5.10a | Millstone | 1979-09-04 | England | Roto | 5c, 5.10c move | Millstone | 1979-09-05 | England | Gates of Mordor L. crack | 5.10a or b | Millstone | 1979-09-05 | England | Embankment II | 5.10b,c | Millstone | 1979-09-05 | England | Embankment IV | 5.10a | Millstone | 1979-09-06 | England | Bitterfingers | 6a, 5.11a | Stoney | 1979-09-08 | England | Dangler | 5c, 5.10c | Stannage | 1979-09-08 | England | Deperation | 5c, 5.10b | Stannage | 1979-09-08 | England | The Asp | 6a, 5.11a | Stannage | 1979-09-09 | England | The Wedge | 5.10c | Ilkley Quarry | 1979-09-15 | England | Promontory Girdle (girdle above) | 5.1 | Black Rocks | 1979-09-16 | England | Stapiombo | 5.10a | Froggatt | 1979-09-18 | England | Hanging Crack | 5.10a | Dovestone | 1979-09-22 | England | Boulevard | 5c | Lawerencefield | 1979-09-22 | England | Attempt Coventry St. | 5.11 | Lawerencefield | 1979-10 | 1979 Fall climbing season Yosemite | 1979-10-13 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt All American Hand Crack | Rick Cashner | 1979-10-14 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-15 | Yosemite Valley | Check out Rt. L. of Phoenix | 1979-10-16 | Yosemite Valley | Bottom 1/2 Rostrum | 5.11 | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-17 | Yosemite Valley | New Dimensions | 5.11a | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-20 | Yosemite Valley | English Breakfast Crack | 5.10c | Joe Bryant | 1979-10-21 | Yosemite Valley | Leaning Meanie & 1st pitch N.D | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-22 | Yosemite Valley | Nabisco Wall | 5.11a | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-23 | Yosemite Valley | Crimson Cringe | 5.12a | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-25 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-27 | Yosemite Valley | Bev Tower | 5.11 | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-27 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs | 5.11c | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-27 | Yosemite Valley | Butterfingers | 5.11a | Elaine Brook | Bev Tower, Butterballs, Butterfingers same day. | 1979-10-29 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 3 pitches Astroman | 5.11 | Elaine Brook | 1979-10-31 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Susie | 1979-11-05 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Bill Critchlow | 1979-11-05 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Catchy Coo | Bill Critchlow | Catchy, attempt Catchy Coo same day. | 1979-11-06 | Yosemite Valley | Jardine's Hand | 5.11a * | Susie | 1st ascent. Cookie Cliff. Pitch above Anathama Rt. Crack. The guidebooks call it "Jardine's Hand," but I didn't name it that, and don't know who did. | 1979-11-09 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt crack above Anathama Left crack | Dave Altman | 1979-11-12 | Yosemite Valley | Red Zinger | 5.11d | Dave Altman | 1st ascent. L. of Meat Grinder. | 1979-12-15 | Yosemite Valley | Check out rt on Elephant R. | Bill Critchlow | 1979-12-14 | Yosemite Valley | Cramming | 5.10d | Peter Chesko, Ron Skelton, Don R. | 1979-12-15 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Ron Skelton | 1979-12-20 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt Hangdog | Ron Skelton | 1979-12-26 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 3 pitches Crimson Cringe | 5.12 | Rick Cashner | 1979-12-27 | Yosemite Valley | Waverly Wafer | 5.10c | Rick Cashner | 1979-12-27 | Yosemite Valley | Butterballs | 5.11c | Rick Cashner | Waverly Wafer, Butterballs same day. | 1979-12-31 | Yosemite Valley | Duflickus falls off, making a horriffic rockslide! |
1980: | |||||||||
1980 Yosemite | 1980-01-02 | Yosemite Valley | Sport jumping on Butterballs | Susie | 1980-01-04 | Yosemite Valley | Outer Limits p2 | 5.10c | Ron Skelton | 1980-01-05 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Hardd | Werner Braun | 1980-01-22 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Susie | 1980-01-22 | Yosemite Valley | Friends Patent | 1980-01-23 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Salathe | Susie | 1980-01-24 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt left crack 1st pitch Nose | Susie | 1980-01-25 | Yosemite Valley | Attempt right crack 1st pitch Nose | Susie | Hot! | 1980-01-30 | Yosemite Valley | Catchy | 5.10d | Susie | 1980-02-01 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Nose, Rt Cr. | Susie | 1980-02-02 | Yosemite Valley | 2nd pitch Nose | Steve Smith | 1980-02-03 | Yosemite Valley | att 3rd pitch Nose | Steve Smith | 1980-02-04 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 1980-02-05 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. 3rd pitch | Susie | (W.O.N. - Working on freeing the Nose), Windy | 1980-02-09 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Att 4th pitch | Frank Brown III | 1980-02-10 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Att 4th pitch | Frank Brown III | 1980-02-11 | Yosemite Valley | Sunnyside Jam | 5.9 | Paul Cowan, Bill Wood | 1980-02-12 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. 4th pitch to Sickle, but lots of falls. | 1980-02-13 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. 4th pitch clean | Rap straight from Sickle. | 1980-02-24 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Jeff Louie | 1980-02-25 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Susie | 1980-02-26 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Ron Skelton | Jumar 1st pitch to get fixed rope | 1980-02-27 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Ron Skelton | 5 ropes jumarred, 11 ropes fixed. | 1980-02-29 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | David | 5 ropes jumarred, 13 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-01 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Susie | 5 ropes jumarred, 14 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-02 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Gripper and 1st N.D. Twice | Joe & John Jenishon | 1980-03-08 | Yosemite Valley | Supplication | 5.10c | Susie | Hot! | 1980-03-09 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Roy | 1980-03-11 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Roy | Free 7th. | 1980-03-13 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | John Borstelmann | 5 ropes jumarred, 17 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-14 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | John Borstelmann | Free into Stovelegs!! 6 ropes jumarred, 18 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-17 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Ron Skelton | 7 ropes jumarred, 19 ropes fixed. Move ropes | 1980-03-19 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | WIND. | 1980-03-20 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Roy | 80' of Stovelegs, then WIND. | 1980-03-24 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | John Borstelmann | 6 ropes jumarred, 21 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-26 | Yosemite Valley | 1st 2 pitches Reeds 3-D | Cold! | 1980-03-27 | Yosemite Valley | Nose, to Dolt Tower | Frank Brown III | 9 ropes jumarred, 22 ropes fixed. | 1980-03-28 | Yosemite Valley | WO.N. | Susie | 1980-03-29 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. to El Cap Tower, almost. | Eric Perlman | 9 ropes jumarred, 24 ropes fixed. Investigate traverse. I had previously found it with Ron Skelton's telescope. | 1980-04-02 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 9 ropes jumarred, 25 ropes fixed. Jug to Dolt solo w/ more ropes | 1980-04-04 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Daniel Bolster | To King Swing and rap Grape Race. | 1980-04-06 | Yosemite Valley | Rescue (recovery) on Nose | Chopper to summit, lower crew to next-to last pitch, haul off dead climber (David Kays). Susie was friends to this guy's wife, very traumatic for everyone. (While working on freeing the Nose, I went to the base each morning, and during this period would find pieces of gear laying on the ground, that this guy had dropped. A couple of carabineers, pitons and a few slings - every day. The gear kept increasing so I told the rangers to be on the look out. Then one early morning I found his whole rack. I went strait back to rangers and said somethings terribly wrong. They brought a telescope, and one look and they called for a helicopter.) | 1980-04-08 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 12 ropes jumarred, 27 ropes fixed. Place bolts on traverse & clean Grape Race. | 1980-04-10 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 1980-04-13 | Yosemite Valley | Nothing | 1980-04-14 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Susie | 12 ropes jumarred, 28 ropes fixed. Susie was afraid to go above Dolt Tower, so she sat there waiting for me to come back down. | 1980-04-16 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 12 ropes jumarred, 29 ropes fixed. | 1980-04-18 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | 12 ropes jumarred, 30 ropes fixed. | 1980-04-18 | Yosemite Valley | Sacherer Cracker | 5.10a | Susie | 1980-04-18 | Yosemite Valley | Little John - Left | 5.8 | Susie | Sacherer Cracker, L. Side Little John same day | 1980-04-25 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Lars | Free trav w/ 1 hang. 12 ropes jumarred, 31 ropes fixed. | 1980-04-26 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Lars | Trav all except 1st move. 12 ropes jumarred, 32 ropes fixed. | 1980-04-27 | Yosemite Valley | 1st & 2nd Reeds 3-D | Susie | 1980-04-28 | Yosemite Valley | Jo Jo | Susie | 1980-04-29 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Rick Anderson | Stormed off. 12 ropes jumarred, 33 ropes fixed. | 1980-04-30 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N | Susie | solo above Dolt Tower. 14 ropes jumarred, 34 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-02 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Daniel Bolster | Free traverse & next pitch. Almost free Grape Race crack. 11 ropes jumarred, 35 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-04 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Free Eagle crack | Daniel Bolster | Free Grape Race up to Grey Bands. Wrote article about this day for Japanese mag. iwato 12 ropes jumarred, 36 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-06 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Free to Camp IV | Daniel Bolster | Free to C IV. Switch lines to Dolt. 16 ropes jumarred, 37 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-08 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Free base of Great Roof pitch | Free to base of Gr Roof Pitch, and aid roof. 14 ropes jumarred, 38 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-12 | Yosemite Valley | Gripper | 5.10b | Lamberto | Funkiest weather!! | 1980-05-16 | Yosemite Valley | 1st pitch Nose | Daniel Bolster, Rod | 1980-05-17 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Free pitch above G.R. | Daniel Bolster, Rod | Free pitch above G. Roof. Wet! Climb to V, clean pitch to V. 16 ropes jumarred, 39 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-19 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. Jug to Dolt | Daniel Bolster | 1980-05-21 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Clean pitch above V. 19 ropes jumarred, 41 ropes fixed. | 1980-05-26 | Yosemite Valley | W.O.N. | Daniel Bolster | Pull all ropes down. 15 ropes jumarred, 42 ropes fixed. 352 ropes jugged total. | 1980-11 | 1980 fall season | 1980-11-14 | Woodson | 1980-11-18 | Woodson | 1980-11-20 | Woodson | 1980-12-01 | Woodson | 1980-12-03 | Woodson | 1980-12-06 | Woodson | 1980-12-08 | Woodson | 1980-12-10 | Woodson | 565 | 1980-12-11 | Woodson | 1980-12-15 | Woodson | 1980-12-18 | Woodson | 1980-12-20 | Woodson | 1980-12-22 | Woodson | 1980-12-24 | Woodson | 1980-12-26 | Woodson | 1980-12-30 | Woodson |
1981: | 1981-01-02 | Woodson | 5 hrs | 1981-01-03 | Woodson | 1981-01-05 | Woodson | 1981-01-07 | Woodson | Daniel Bolster, Terrance | 1981-01-09 | Woodson | Daniel Bolster, Terrance | 1981-08-22 | Woodson | Joe Keoughan | 7 am, before day gets too hot | 1981-08-29 | Woodson | Joe Keoughan | 1981-09-06 | Woodson | Joe Keoughan | 1981-09-26 | Woodson | Joe Keoughan |
1982 | 1982-05-07 | Woodson | Bouldering Woodson | Solo | 1982-05 | 1982 England | 1982-05-20 | England | Lawerence Field | 1982-05-22 | England | Carl's Walk | Mark Vallance | Stoney Middleton | 1982-05-22 | England | Bubbles | 5c | Mark Vallance | 1982-05-24 | England | Curber | Calver. Rained out | 1982-05-26 | England | Green Crack (mv) | Mark Vallance | Curber | 1982-05-26 | England | Insanity (mv) | 5c | Mark Vallance | Curber | 1982-05-30 | England | Terrace Crack, 2 star (rj) | Froggatt | 1982-05-30 | England | Latecomer (rj) | Yarncliffe Quarry | 1982-05-30 | England | Bow-Shaped Wall (rj) | Yarncliffe Quarry | 1982-05-30 | England | Zapple - 3 star (rj) | Yarncliffe Quarry | 1982-06-02 | England | Bond Street - 3 star (rj) | Millstone | 1982-06-03 | England | Embankment (rj) | Millstone | 1982-06-03 | England | Knight's Bridge (mv) | Mark Vallance | Millstone | 1982-06-03 | England | Great Portland Street (rj) | Millstone | 1982-06-05 | England | Great North Road (rj) | Mark Vallance | Millstone | 1982-06-05 | England | Brimstone (rj & mv) | Mark Vallance | Millstone | 1982-06-06 | England | ? | Millstone. | 1982-06-13 | England | F Route (rj) | Gimmer Crag | 1982-06-13 | England | Kipling Groove (rj) | Gimmer Crag | 1982-06-14 | England | Slip Knot (rj) | White Ghyll | 1982-06-14 | England | White Ghyll Eliminate (rj) | White Ghyll | 1982-06-14 | England | Moss Wall (rj) | White Ghyll | 1982-06 | 1982 a few trips to Woodson while preparing for our round-the-world sailing voyage. | 1982-06-28 | Woodson | 1982-07-08 | Woodson | Hear matrainacommin' | 5.12 | Mark Vallance | 1982-07-17 | Woodson | Woodson | 1982-07-23 | Yosemite Valley | Lunatic Fringe | 5.10c | Jenny | Driving to Oregon to register the boat, stop by Yosemite and take Jenny on a climb. | 1982-07-31 | Woodson | Woodson | Jenny, Joe Keoughan, Laura | 1982-10-22 | Woodson | bouldering | Joe Keoughan | 1990's | Jenny and I did a bunch of new routes in Oregon. |
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